Glass_
Book_
[Separate No. 15
Chapters in Fox River Valley History
I. William Powell's Recollections
II. Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River, bv
John Wallace Arndt
? rom the Proceedings of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin for
19 1 2, pages 146-220]
Madison
Published for the Society
1913
[Separate No. 152]
Chapters in Fox River Valley Historv
I. William Powell's Recollections
[I. Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River, by
John Wallace Arndt
From the Proceedings o; the State Histonca. Society of Wisconsin for
1912, pages 146-220]
Madison
Published rbr the Societv
IQl 1
William Powell's Recollections
In an Interview with Lyman C. Draper 1
Peter Powell, 2 my father, was horn in England in 1778. Com-
ing to what is now Wisconsin in ]800, he engaged in the Indian
trade, his earliest post being at "White Rapids on Menominee
River, about eighty miles from Green Bay; he made his returns
at Mackinac and passed his summers at Green Bay settlement.
At lirst he was a clerk for Jacob Franks, 3 but afterwards en-
1 In the Society's annual report for 1878 (Wis. Hist. Colls., viii, p.
53) is the following: "The secretary, during the past year, * * *
made a visit to Capt. Win. Powell, of Shawano County, a native o:
Wisconsin, now bordering closely on three score and ten, and inti-
mately connected with the Menomonees and other Wisconsin tribes
since 1819, and noted down a lengthy statement of his dictation, em-
bracing his recollections of the Menomonees and their prominent
Chiefs, Col. Robert Dickson, the British leader of the Northwestern In-
dian tribes during the War of 1812-15, and the derivation and meaning
of many Indian geographical names in Wisconsin having a Menomonee
origin." The interview which Doctor Draper took down in notes at
the time, has ever since remained only in manuscript. In editing this
document for the present publication, we have combined therewith a
letter written by William Powell some years later to the present Edi-
tor, detailing some additional facts in the lives of both father and son.
In working both sources into a connected narrative, we have made only
such changes as involved re-arranging the material and improving the
phraseology of necessary points. It is believed that Powell's Recollec-
tions, while not as valuable as those of Augustin Grignon, published in
Wis. Hist. Colls., iii, will prove an authoritative and substantial contri-
bution to early Wisconsin history. — Ed.
'The brief sketch of Peter Powell in Wis. Hist. Colls., xix, p. SS8,
was written before this manuscript came to light. — Ed.
"For a Bketch of this trader see Id, xviii, p. 463, note 85.— Ed.
[146]
D. 0F0, :.
MAR 25 1918
William Powell (1810-1885)
Enlarged from photograph in possession of the Society
Powell's Recollections
gaged in trade for himself. My mother was Mary Jeffrey, a native
of Green Bay, and half Menominee. Her father was an English-
man, and her mother belonged to the family of chief Oshkosh.
My father and mother were married at Mackinac in 1802. They
had a family of eight, five sons and three daughters, of which
there are only myself and a younger brother now (1877) living.
I was the fourth child and was born near Death's Door at the
entrance to Green Bay. My father was returning from Mack-
inac to Green Bay with my mother — he had taken her with him
to Mackinac when he went after his goods ; she was taken sick en
route, and I was born the twenty-fifth of September, 1810.
My father was with Colonel McKay at the capture of Prairie
du Chien. 4 In August, 1819 [July, 1818], 5 Col. Robert Dickson, 6
formerly Indian agent for the British in the War of 1812, vis-
ited Green Bay, and advised my father to go to Pembina to
trade, saying that he was British agent there, 7 and would do
what he could to favor his interests.
In company with Dickson we started from Green Bay in a
bark canoe, hiring four French voyageurs and a hunter to kill
game en route, as we could not carry provisions enough to last
during the trip. We coasted Lake Michigan to Mackinac and
up Sault St. Mary River into Lake Superior, coasted that lake
and through the Lake [of the] Woods and Lake Winnipeg,
thence up Red River to Pembina settlement, arriving at that
4 For a history of the expedition see Id, xi, pp. 254-270; xiii, pp. 1-14;
and post. A sketch of McKay is in Id, xix, p. 365, note 12. — Ed.
* In his interview with Draper, Powell told him that they left for the
Red River country in August, 1819. In the letter written later, how-
ever, he gave the date as July, 1818. In the light of his further state-
ments and of other corroborating evidence, it seems probable that the
latter was the correct date. — Ed.
•Dickson's career is sketched in Id, xii, pp. 133-153; additional facts
are found in Id, xix, xx, passim. — Ed.
T Dickson was, in fact, agent for Lord Selkirk, and aiding him In hia
plans for settling the Red River country. About this time Dickson
was urging all the prominent traders at Green Bay — Porlier, Lawe, and
the Grignons — to remove to Red River and take with them the Menom-
inee tribesmen. See documenth in Id. xx, passim. Apparently Pow-
ell was the only one of the old British traders who acceded to Dick-
son's request. — Ed.
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place the last of September. There father engaged in the Indian
trade, having purchased his goods from the Hudson 's Bay Com-
pany ; remained there three years ; each spring he went to Hud-
son Bay with his furs and returned in the fall with his goods.
At the expiration of the three years he started back for Green
Bay with his family, by a land route to the headwaters of
Minnesota River. Late in November of 1821, we arrived at Lake
Traverse, at a trading post then kept by Mr. Joseph D'Raville, 8
who was employed by the Hudson's Bay Company, and we
passed the winter at that place. A short time after we arrived
at Lake Traverse a man came there from Illinois, by the name
of Dixson, 9 with a drove of cattle, on his way to Pembina set-
tlement; but as winter commenced setting in he was obliged to
remain there. During the winter he lost more than half of his
cattle, killed by wolves and Sioux Indians.
In the spring of 1822 my father sold his carts and horses to
Mr. D'Raville and bought two dugouts large enough to carry
his family and his goods, descended Minnesota River to its
mouth, 10 which emptied into the Mississippi about six miles
• This was Joseph Renville, a Dakota half-breed who was born near
St. Paul about 1779. Educated in Canada, he early entered Dickson's
employ and was interpreter and guide for Pike in 1805-06 and for
Major Long in 1823. He served in the War of 1812-15 as captain in
the British Indian department under Dickson, and afterwards received
a pension. About 1819 he gave up this pension, became an American
citizen, and in 1822 was one of the founders of the Columbia Fur Com-
pany. When this corporation was sold (1827) to the American Fur
Company, he retired to Lac qui Parle and there died in 1846. A Minne-
sota county bears his name. See fuller biographical sketch in Wis.
Hist. Colls., xx. — Ed.
"On a map published in 1838 by Judson, of the territory west of the
Mississippi, is traced a route from Des Moines River to Lake Traverse,
marked "McKnight and Dixon's route, 1822." This no doubt refers to
the cattle train here noted. Alexander Ross, Red River Settlement
(London, 1856), p. 73, mentions the arrival in 1822 of a herd of 300
cattle that sold for good prices — the first, he says, that came to the
colony. — Ed.
10 In the Society's Wisconsin Mss., 10B28, is a letter from Peter Pow-
ell to John Lawe, dated Lake de Traverse, March 14, 1822. After
speaking of the state of things in the Red River country, Powell con-
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Powell's Recollections
above St. Paul. That summer my father with all his family,
except myself, arrived at Green Bay. He left me with Capt.
William Alexander of the Fifth Regiment, U. S. A., who was
stationed at Fort Snelling. 11 I was to stay with him until my
father should send for me, in order to go to the school which
was kept in the garrison for the officers' children.
Soon after my father returned to Green Bay he again en-
gaged in the Indian trade. His wintering places were up the
Mississippi, also up Minnesota River as far as the Blue Earth,
which empties into it thirty to forty miles above St. Paul. In
the spring he made his returns with his furs at Mackinac. In
1826 he stopped buying his goods from the American Fur Com-
pany and bought them from Daniel Whitney of Green Bay, 12
who was the only man in the Western Department who dared
to oppose John Jacob Astor in the Indian trade. In the spring
of 1827 my father built a log house on Lake Butte des Morts and
left his family at thai place while he wintered at his trading
post; returning in the spring he passed the summer with his
family at Butte des Morts. That place continued to be his home
till his death in September, 1837. My mother survived him
several years, was remarried, and died at Green Bay in the
summer of 1844.
The French and Fox War 13
From Iometah, Oshkosh, and other aged Menominee, I learned
that the Sauk and Foxes once had a town at Red Banks; later
they removed to Green Bay and got into trouble with the French
tinues thus: "there is no prospect of doing anything in this Country.
I have past a Miserable winter for starvation. I intend to pass the
Spring a Hunting then go down to the Entry of St. Peters this Sum-
mer. * * * I am now much distressed, my family are Quite naked
& on the point of Starving." — Ed.
"Alexander was at this time lieutenant in the 5th Infantry. H«
was from Tennessee, entered the regular army in 1820, was promoted to
a captaincy in 1836, and died two years later. — Ed.
"For a sketch of this early Green Bay merchant, see Wis. Hist.
Colls., xii, p. 274, note 3.— Ed.
13 See Louise P. Kellogg, "Fox Indian Wars," in Wis. Hist. Soc.
Proceedings, 1907, pp. 142-188.— Ed.
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and were made to retire to Little Butte des Morts — now Neenah.
Here they exacted tribute in the following way: some of their
leaders would post themselves on either side of the stream with
a long pole, held up and leaning over the water, indicating that
the trader's boats must heave to, and pay tribute before pro-
ceeding farther. Getting tired of these exactions, the French
got up an expedition and drove them off from Little Butte des
Morts. The Sauk and Foxes then retired to Big Butte des
Morts and at that point renewed their exactions in the same
way. At this time there was a Menominee who had married a
Sauk wife. The French and Menominee at Green Bay prevailed
on him to go to the Sauk and report some pitiful story of bad
treatment on the part of his people as a reason why he had re-
tired to Big Butte des Morts to make his future home with his
wife's people; and to report also that there were some traders'
boats soon coming up, upon which they could levy rich tribute.
In time the flotilla appeared in sight, each canoe covered
with an oilcloth over a ridge-pole, like a roof. Beneath this were
a body of armed French, while a large body of Menominee and
Chippewa marched up the river by land. As soon as the fleet
hove in sight of the town, the Menominee spy quietly and un-
noticed took his departure, and apprised his countrymen whom
he soon met, that the boats were nearing the Sauk and Fox vil-
lage. Thereupon they hastened and crept into the rear of the
place. As the boats came up, and the tribute poles were posted,
the French made for the town landing, and the people rushed
down to see and meet them. Then the boat coverings were sud-
denly thrown off, and the soldiers fired on the Sauk and Fox
assemblage, who as they fled back to their houses to get their
weapons, were met by the Menominee and Chippewa in the rear,
and soon overpowered. Some fled to "Winneconne, about three
miles distant, where many were overtaken and killed. There
their bones were left to bleach upon the ground, hence the name
— Winneconne, ' ' the place of skulls. ' ' Thus the Sauk and Foxes
were again driven westward, up the Fox and down the "Wiscon-
sin. A part of them went up to Puckaway and Buffalo lakes,
and settled there ; the rest settled at Sauk Prairie on the Wiscon-
sin, where subsequently they w-ere joined by the others.
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Powell's Recollections
War of 1 8 12-15
Chicago Massacre, 1812: Souligny related to me that a
splendid-looking woman (who proved to have been an officer's
wife), refused to surrender after the Indians attacked the re-
treating garrison. She stood up in a wagon and defended her-
self with her sword, cut and slashed with it, and perhaps
wounded an Indian or two, when the Indians, who would have
preserved her life, felt constrained to shoot her. Souligny spoke
of her long, handsome, flowing hair. He likewise referred to
her heroism in sacrificing her life rather than yield herself up
a prisoner to the Indians. Such an act naturally attracted the
attention of the w T arriors. 14
Indians under Dickson. During 1812-13 Col. Robert Dick-
son wintered in a nice piece of timber on the west side of Lake
Winnebago, between Garlic Island and Neenah — about half
way between the Island and Neenah. He reached there late in
1812 with a large supply of British presents for the Indians,
which he distributed liberally ; and then the Indians retired for
their winter's hunt, being admonished to meet him early in the
spring to go upon the warpath. 15 They assembled in large
numbers and received numerous presents and supplies ; but at
Mackinac a large portion of them backed out and returned home,
so Souligny and others related, conveying the idea that only the
boldest and bravest kept on.
At Fort Meigs, Souligny first met Tecumseh, shook hands with
him, and represented that he regarded it as an honor to have
met and fought by the side of so noted and brave a man.
Tecumseh was tall, fully six feet, and well-formed. Arrived at
Fort Meigs, they drew a party of Americans into an ambuscade
14 Probably this was Mrs. Corbin, wife of a sergeant. Mrs. Kinzie in
Wauban (Caxton ed., 1901), p. 178, refers to her heroism. She also
narrates the resistance of a Mrs. Holt, who hacked and cut with her
husband's sword; but she was on horseback, not in a wagon; and
moreover she was ultimately saved from death. — Ed.
15 See Dickson papers in Wis. Hist. Colls., xi, pp. 271-315; xix, pp.
344-346. In xi, p. 278, Dickson dates his letter from Garlic Island,
which would seem to indicate that he wintered thereon, not on the
mainland. Arndt, post, also locates Dickson on the island. — Ed.
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[Colonel Dudley's party], 16 but after that failed to make any
impression on the fort, only now and then picking off some of
the sentinels. Finally as a last resort, Tecumseh formed the
novel idea of the pretended fight in the woods — as if the In-
dians were encountering an American reinforcement — expecting
the garrison would hasten out to the relief of their supposed
friends. But General Harrison was too wary to be caught in
a.ny such trap. 17 During the siege two Menominee were cap-
tured by some American Shawnee, but managed to escape. Be-
coming discouraged, the British Indians wanted to go home,
when Colonel Dickson and the British leaders, to divert their
attention, led them against Sandusky. There the Indians picked
off some of the Americans going for water ; but after the I ritish
repulse, all retired. 18
There probably were no Menominee at the taking of Detroit,
or at the River Raisin. Souligny and others spoke as though
their first service was when Dickson embodied them and led
them to Fort Meigs and Sandusky.
Mackinac in 1814. There lived for many years a very aged
Winnebago chief, called Caramaunee, at a little village composed
of only three or four bark lodges belonging to himself and his
sons-in-law, located about two miles east of what is since called
Waukau. [Captain Powell suggests that this may be a slight
change or corruption for Nahkaw]. 19 East of Fox River, about
two miles above Omro, is Delhi. Some two miles back [south]
east of Delhi was Waukau, on the old Fort Winnebago trail
from Green Bay to the Fox-Wisconsin portage. About two
miles east [south] of Waukau, on the west bank of [the outlet
of] Rush or Mud Lake, near the centre of the stream, was Car-
18 The interpolation is probably that of Dr. Draper, explaining Pow-
ell's reference to an ambuscade. For a brief account of the siege of
Fort Meigs and Dudley's defeat (May 5, 1813) see C. P. Lucas, The
Canadian War of 1812 (Oxford, 1906), pp. 75-77.— Ed.
17 Reference is here made to the second siege of Fort Meigs in July;
see Ibid, p. 78. — Ed.
18 This relates to the siege of Fort Stephenson, Aug. 1 and 2 ; Ibid.
pp. 78, 79— Ed.
u Nahkaw was the Indian form of Caramaunee's name; see Wis. Hist.
Colls., v, p. 181, note.— Ed.
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Powell's Recollections
amaunee's village. 20 He was a. large, square-shouldered, stout
man, not very tall, but with a powerful frame and long face.
While his people were generally regarded as unreliable and
thievish, Caramaunee bore a most excellent character, was liked
by all traders, and was friendly to the whites. "When I saw
him last, about 1830, he seemed nearly a hundred years of age.
He said he was out with Colonel Dickson in the War of 1812,
went with the Menominee to Sandusky, and was at Mackinac
when Major Holmes" 1 was shot by L'Espagnol.
Caramaunee and L'Espagnol both gave me the following ac-
count of the battle on Mackinac Island. 22 When the Americans
landed, the Indians and most of the garrison went out to way-
lay them. The Indians hid behind rocks and boulders on either
side of the anticipated route, while the English with cannon
were in the rear towards the fort to draw the Americans forward
into the net or trap. While in waiting, the few whites left in
the fort got alarmed, thought the Americans were approaching
in their rear, and sent a messenger in great haste to notify those
in front ; whereupon nearly all the Indians fled to the rear, ex-
20 Publius V. Lawson, Winnebago County (Chicago, 1908), i, p. 308,
says that there was a village at the outlet of Rush Lake as late as 1846.
According to John T. La Ronde, Wis. Hist. Colls., vii, p. 350, Caramau-
nee had by 1828 removed to the Baraboo River. — Ed.
21 Maj. Andrew Hunter Holmes entered the regular army from Missis-
sippi at the outbreak of the war, and was assigned as captain of the
24th Infantry. In March, 1814, he distinguished himself in a skirmish
on the River Thames, Ontario, where he defeated a British force su-
perior in numbers to his own. For this success he was promoted to the
rank of major, and assigned to a part in the recovery of Mackinac. He
was killed Aug. 4, 1814, and after the recovery of his body, buried at
Detroit. The fort on the highest point of Mackinac Island was subse-
quently, in his honor, named Fort Holmes. — Ed.
22 The expedition to recapture Mackinac was undertaken against the
judgment of the American officers of the Western department, but it
was ordered from Washington. The fleet was commanded by Commo-
dore Sinclair; the land forces by Col. George Croghan. Landing on the
west side of the island, the Americans advanced (Aug. 4, 1814), against
the British who had thrown up rude fortifications. The death of
Holmes threw the advance into confusion, whereupon retreat to the
ships was ordered. — Ed.
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pecting to encounter the Americans there; but it proved to be
a false alarm.
L'Espagnol and his nephew, the Yellow Dog (Oshawwah-
nem), 23 remained in their places of secretion. Oshawwahnem
said "Uncle, let us go with the others." "No," said L'Espag-
nol, "I shall remain; if you wish to go, you can; but you
ought to show proper respect for your uncle by standing by
him. ' ' Soon they saw the Americans approaching by the route
along which they were originally expected, with the officers and
a small bodyguard in front. The dress of one officer was
thickly covered with silver lace, upon which the sun sbone and
reflected brilliantly. Supposing this to be the principal officer,
the young nephew asked of his uncle the privilege of shooting
him, as it would be the greatest honor. Among the Indians, it
was a custom that when an uncle commanded a nephew to per-
form any service, however dangerous, he was in duty bound to
do it with unquestioned promptitude ; asd in return the nephew
had the right to ask any favor of hip uncle, which must as
readily be complied with. Hence L'Espagnol promptly acceded
to Yellow Dog's request. The nephew was to fire when his
uncle should set the example by firing at a plainer dressed
officer, who was swinging bis sword carelessly by the handle.
When L'Espagnol fired, Major Holmes — for so he proved to be
— with his epaulette on his shoulder, fell forward dead. His
sword and cap were pitched somewhat ahead of him, and
L'Espagnol had barely time to dash out, seize them, and hasten
away in the rear of the rocks, with his nephew following him.
The latter 's gun had missed fire, so the bespangled captain
escaped unhurt.
"When Major Holmes fell, his negro servant ran off with his
body, hiding it between a couple of boulders and throwing some
leaves and stuff over him. Hence, when the Indians subse-
quently returned to get his scalp and searched carefully, they
25 Dr. Draper wrote on the Ms., "It must be an error in Grignon's
'Recollections' [Wis. Hist. Colls., iii, p. 280] that Oshawwahnem was a
cousin of L'Espagnol." But Indian relationships were not carefully
marked in degree — the difference between nephew and cousin might
not be regarded as important. For further information concerning this
chief, consult Id, x, pp. 499, 500. — Ed.
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Powell's Recollections
failed to find it. Shortly after, the Americans sent back a
flag of truce from their ships lying at anchor, asking permission
to take away Major Holmes's body. This was granted and the
Indians who went along with the British guard were surprised
when the American party, with the "black meat" (as they
termed the negro servant) for their guide, went and uncovered
the concealed body within a few feet of where they had repeat-
edly passed in search of it. Thus L'Espagnol lost his much cov-
eted scalp ; but the exploit, and the trophies which he gave to
Colonel Dickson, gave him a high reputation among his people.
I myself saw in 1819 the sword and cap formerly belonging to
Major Holmes, then in Dickson's possession.
The Yellow Dog must have died early, for I have no recol-
lection of ever having seen him. L'Espagnol used to live in
the Green Bay region, making his winter hunts up the Wiscon-
sin. He was an excellent hunter and trapper, and really a
peaceable and good Indian and popular with the traders. L'Es-
pagnol was not less than six feet two inches in height, rawboned,
and powerful. He could pack on his back a deer he had
killed, a five-year-old buck, weighing over two hundred pounds.
Saketoo, the eldest surviving son of L'Espagnol, and a younger
brother, are (1877) living near Keshena.
Prairie du Chien Expedition. I have no knowledge of Col-
onel McKay's history prior or subsequent to the Prairie du
Chien expedition. But I knew Duncan Graham, a Scotchman
who married a Sioux woman. He was a small-sized man and
while on a visit to Green Bay about 1830, got a power of attor-
ney from Peter Powell, John Lawe, and some of the Grignons
for British services, and went to Montreal to collect the claims;
but he was never heard of afterwards. 24
My father, who was in McKay's expedition, used to relate
that the [American] gunboat was upon the river above the fort.
When the British and Indians (Menominee, Winnebago, Sioux,
some Chippewa, and perhaps Potawatomi) were lying around
"For facts in regard to the life of Duncan Graham, see Id, ix, pp.
299, 467. Peter Powell was employed by Graham in the Red River
country, 1818-21, so that Captain William must have known him when
a boy. The story of his disappearance is untrue; he died in Minnesota
about 1845, at the home of his son-in-law, Alexander Faribault. — Ed.
11 [ 155 ]
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on the flats, beleaguering the post, the gunboat floated down.
Seeing the British and Indians apparently so numerous, those
on board of the boat regarded the chance of maintaining the
fort as hopeless, so concluded that their best course was to save
themselves and boat and pass on down the river. As they
passed, the [American] garrison hailed them, and even shot off
their cannon at the vessel from the bastions, to make them
heave to; but they passed on without stopping. Lewis From
[Louis Manaigre] , one of the crew or men on the gunboat, whom
I later knew well, stated to me that the shot from the American
cannon penetrated the stern of the vessel.
When the British first arrived and demanded a surrender the
American commander refused; thereupon Colonel McKay had
a furnace erected to heat balls with which to attempt to fire the
fort. Seeing the gunboat had deserted them, the garrison con-
cluded it was best to surrender, and did so just as the British
had got ready to fire their hot shot. Peter Powell used to say
that had the gunboat taken its place near the fort, it could have
done effectual work in beating back the British and Indians, and
he thought, would have saved the garrison. I have heard the
Menominee speak of Colonel McKay as a brave, good leader and
instance the fact that when the Americans fired their cannon,
the Indians would dodge behind some protection, or fall upon
the ground ; but Colonel McKay himself would remain standing,
erect and fearless. On the way to Prairie du Chien, there was
but a short supply of salt, so the expedition had to take barrels
of sugar to use in covering and preserving the fresh beef, which
answered the purpose.
Boilvin, 25 the Indian agent at the Prairie, was scared half to
death; he acted as British or American, as best answered his
purpose. Peter Powell also related that while the negotiations
were going on for the surrender at the gate, and the firing had
ceased, the Indians pressed up to the outside of the pickets,
when one of the Sioux peeping through a crack between the
pickets, seeing an American soldier near-by called out " how-do,"
extending his hand. When the American thrust his hand
through between the pickets, the Indian seized it with one hand,
'■For a sketch of Nicolas Boilvin see Id, xix, p. 314, note 61. — Ed.
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Powell's Recollections
at the same time treacherously drawing his knife and cutting
the soldier's hand quite to the bone before the treachery was
discovered. When Colonel McKay learned the facts, he ferreted
out the culprit, and punished him by degrading him to a squaw,
depriving him of his gun, and putting on him a petticoat.
Rolette 26 was sent by canoe with a flag and a few men to
carry dispatches to Mackinac from Colonel McKay. As they
hove in sight of Mackinac, singing their songs, the people all
rushed to the landing, asking for news from the expedition be-
fore they reached the shore. Rolette, excited and impressed
with the importance of what had been accomplished, replied:
"Oh, we've gained a great and bloody battle and victory I' 8
when in fact scarcely any lives were lost.
The only Menominee I now recall who served in the War of
1812 and is still living, is Okamawsah, known by the whites as
Louis Ducharme. He was a half-breed son of Colonel Du-
charme, 27 and on going to parties used to put on his uniform.
The Colonel himself was a large, dignified man, and died when
quite aged, at Green Bay about 1831.
Tecum seh. From what Souligny and others related, I under-
stand that Tecumseh never visited the Green Bay Menominee in
persons; but some of his messengers did come, bringing a wam-
pum belt or speech, urging the Menominee to join the confeder-
acy, and they accomplished their object. Souligny and others
had formed a high opinion of Tecumseh, and used to relate that
they first saw the great Shawnee leader at Fort Meigs, in the
spring of 1813.
Robert Dickson
I know nothing of Dickson's early life. Soon after he came
out as a trader, he married a daughter of Wanoti, head chief
of the Yankton band of the Sioux — a band that lived on the
"For Joseph Rolette see Ibid, p. 140, note 84. — Ed.
"For a brief sketch of Col. Joseph Ducharme, see Ibid, p. 293, note
22; his son Louis is mentioned in Id, xv, pp. 215-217. Dr. Draper, how-
ever, thought that reference was here made to a son of Dominique,
brother of Joseph and Paul Ducharme. — Ed.
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plains and prairies. 28 His oldest child, William, 29 was in 1819
about twenty-one and just married. Thus he was born about
1798, and Dickson must have formed this marriage connection
about 1797. Dickson's wife was a very small woman, fair of
complexion, but at forty not handsome. When we left Pembina
in the spring of 1822 and went to Fort Snelling, we met Dick-
son, who shortly after left his children there and took his wife
on a visit to England. It was said that he presented her to the
king and court, where she maintained herself with much dignity.
The Indians fairly reverenced and worshipped Dickson, re-
garding him as a great man. He was of fine appearance, over
six feet in height, a very large-sized man, in later life being
somewhat corpulent, weighing over two hundred pounds. The
Indians called him Mascotapah, or The Red-haired Man — some-
times Dick-e-son. He was generous to a fault, and humane.
Souligny related that Dickson constantly impressed it upon the
Indians not to kill and take scalps when they could take prison-
ers, saying that the greater warriors took and saved prisoners
rather than destroyed them. I also remember having heard
that Colonel Snelling entertained Colonel Dickson very courte-
ously at Fort Snelling, in recognition of his humanity during
the War of 1812-15.
Dickson used to assure the Menominee and Sioux that those
Avho had served under the British standard should never be for-
gotten ; that their Great Father had empowered him to say that
as long as one should be alive who had thus served the king, he
should not want; that their lodges should be covered with scar-
let cloth.
In 1823 Dickson visited Prairie du Chien, leaving there his
daughter Ellen, then a young lady grown, probably to obtain
something of an education. This was the last time that I ever
saw him. Ellen subsequently married Joseph R. Brown, a ser-
geant in the army, who was not long after discharged and went
"According to Warren, "History of the Ojibwa," in Minn. Hist. Colls.,
v, p. 363, Wanahta, chief of the Yankton band, was a nephew of Dick-
Bon'B wife. The former was a noted Sioux chief of the plains of the"
Red River of the North. — Ed.
"For a brief sketch of William Dickson, see Wis. Hist. Colls., xix,
p. 444, note 73.— Ed.
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to live upon a farm near Fort Armstrong, on the western side
of the Mississippi There I once stayed over night with him, and
have since learned that he was a member of the Minnesota legis-
lature during its territorial period, so he must have subsequently
removed to Minnesota. 30
Dickson's son Thomas was a clerk in the Indian trade, and
got killed in some affray with the Sioux. The younger girl
lived at Faribault. I think it was not long after this visit to
Prairie du Chien and Green Bay, that the news came of Dick-
son's death at Drummond Island. 31
Menominee chiefs
Among the Menominee, the White Beaver (to which Oshkosh
belonged), the Wolf, the Turtle, the Crane, and the Bear were
the principal clans — there were several lesser ones, such as the
Turkey, etc.
Tomah was a large, fine man, much respected by whites and
Indians. 32
Souligny was fond of relating his war exploits, and rather mag-
nified them. He was about five feet nine inches high, very
stoutly built, and strong. He died about 1867 of erysipelas,
nearly eighty years old, but well preserved. 33
30 Maj. Joseph R. Brown was one of the most influential of the early
settlers of Minnesota. Born in Maryland in 1805, he ran away at the
age of fourteen and joined the United States army as a drummer. Com-
ing with Colonel Leavenworth to Fort Snelling in 1819, he was dis-
charged about 1825 and entered the Indian trade. Later he was a pio-
neer lumberman, printer, legislator, and editor, being the founder of
the St. Paul Pioneer. He laid out the town of Stillwater, was in both
the Wisconsin and Minnesota territorial legislatures, and was one of
the best-known men of the region. He died in New York in 1870. See
Minn. Hust. Colls., iii, pp. 201-212; iv, p. 41; ix, p. 179.— Ed.
"Dickson died at Drummond Island, July 20, 1823, aged fifty-five
years. — Ed.
M For a brief sketch of this noted chief see Wis. Hist. Colls., xviii,
p. 446, note 65; a document in Id, xix, p. 346, proves his participation in
the War of 1812-15 on the British side.— Ed.
M For a different date of Souligny's death see Id, x, p. 497— Ed.
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Waupomasah, nicknamed Old Sore-Eyes, was principal chief
of the Menominee at Lake Shawano. The "Admired Man" is
the meaning of his name. He was out in the War of 1812, and
died at Keshena about 1868, fully eighty years of age.
Iometah died about the same year that Souligny did — very
aged and childish. He was a short, thickset man, about five
feet eight inches, an excellent Indian in character. 34
Poegonah, generally called Big Soldier, 35 died in 1834 or 1835
nearly ninety years of age, at the village of his name in Calu-
met County, on Lake Winnebago, nearly opposite the mouth
of the Black Wolf. From earliest life he had gone on every
war expedition with his people, and even with other tribes.
Once he was out in a campaign against the Pawnee. He was
the tallest man among the Menominee, fully six feet four inches,
finely proportioned, and was known for his tall form by all the
nations around. He always wore a conspicuous eagle feather on
the top of his scalp-lock, so fitted into a small hollow upright
bone, with a socket, that it would twirl about with every chang-
ing breeze. He seemed to pride himself in having his scalp-
lock nicely trimmed and ornamented, as much as to say to his
enemies in war, "Come and take it if you can!" But he had
an abiding faith that no foe would ever possess it. He attended
the treaty at Green Bay in 1828, where a drunken soldier acting
as sentinel in protecting the Indian camp, recklessly ran his
bayonet through Poegonah 's thigh. The old chief seized the
soldier, disarmed him with one hand, and grabbing him by the
throat with the other, threw him to the ground, calling him a
dog, and alleging that if he were an enemy, he would take his
life for his insolence. Colonel Brooks, the commanding officer
of the troops, had the reckless soldier whipped in the presence
of the Indians. 36 Poegonah went out on the Sauk expedition in
31 See Ibid, pp. 497-499, where Dr. Draper gives some additional state-
ments from Powell, with relation to this chief. — Ed.
•° Compare what Augustin Grignon says of this chief in Id, iii,
pp. 232, 294.— Ed.
"There was no treaty at Green Bay in 1828; Powell doubtless refers
to that of 1832, which the Big Soldier signed. At that time, also, Gen.
George E. Brooke of the 5th Infantry was commandant at Fort How-
ard. — Ed.
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1832, but said that it was only child's play, although it would
serve to give the young warriors some little experience. So in
the skirmish near Cassville 37 he did not discharge his gun, but
rushed among the combatants to show his fearlessness.
He left two sons, both large men, Sacketook and Wiskeno (or
The Bird) — the former was a chief and good Indian. Both
have passed away.
Grizzly Bear 38 (Kotskaunoniew), a very large, fleshy Indian,
the orator of the Menominee, was smart and intelligent and
prided himself on being the white man's friend. He went to
Washington with Stambaugh 39 and stayed during the winter
of 1830-31. On his return from this trip, where he had been,
shown everything grand and magnificent, he was asked what
had made the most marked impression on his mind. He re-
plied that the grandest sight he had ever witnessed was a large
prairie on fire on a dark night — to see the flames jumping and
running like lightning, and sending their glare and flashes to
the very skies.
When on the Hudson River steamer from New York to Al-
bany, there was quite a large party aboard. Among the num-
ber was a fashionable young lady, who expressed to the inter-
preter a wish to kiss Grizzly Bear, to which that warrior readily
assented. When the kiss had been taken and the young lady
retired, some of his friends rallied the old chief, saying that the
young lady must have fallen in love with him. He replied that
that was not her motive — she simply wished to have it to say
that she had kissed a brave and noted Indian chief. He had
clear ideas of the whites, was of a commanding appearance, and
died a few years after the Sauk War, perhaps somewhat more
than sixty years of age.
Pewautenot's son Waunako was a pretty smart Indian and
a great speaker. He belonged to the band on Menominee River,
87 See post. — Ed.
•'Compare Grignon's account, Wis. Hist. Colls., iii, p. 284; see also
Id, ii, p. 434. His name in French was Oraisse d'Ours which signifies
Bears' Fat; the denomination "Grizzly" appears to be a misinterpreta-
tion — no grizzly bears having had a Wisconsin habitat. — Ed.
" Samuel C. Stambaugh was for a short time Indian agent at Green
Bay; see Id, xi, p. 392; also xii, xv, passim. — Ed.
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and has been dead several years. The present chief Keshena is
his nephew.
Oshkosh 40 possessed, in a remarkable degree, a knowledge of
the traditions of his people. He was a man of strong sense
and died at Keshena, Shawano County, August 15, 1858. He
requested his tribe, when he died, to bury him in a sitting pos-
ture, with his pipe, tobacco pouch, gun and powder-horn, and
pouch, one beaver steel trap, and a rat trap, so that he might
be properly equipped when he arrived in the good hunting
ground.
Ahconemay, his oldest son, was to take his place as head
chief of the tribe after his death, and he was so considered by
the tribe, until he was suspended by the Indian agent for kill-
ing Augustin Grignon Jr. 41 Even after his suspension the tribe
still regarded him, as they had his father, head chief of the tribe.
Oshkahenawniew, or The Young Man, was Oshkosh 's only
brother. He was small in stature, abusive and bitter in his
speech. He died about 1867, and two of his sons are still liv-
ing. 42
Charley Carron is the son of Josette, 43 who was recognized by
Governor Cass at the treaty at Little Butte des Morts in 1827
as the second chief of the Menominee. Charley was in my em-
ploy as clerk from 1841 until 1845, while I was trading on Fox
River, two miles above Omro. When he left my employ he
went and settled where Omro now is; he pre-empted the land,
but sold out in 1847, and moved to Mukwa on the Wolf River.
40 For this chief see Id, iii, iv, passim. — Ed.
a This event occurred in 1861. Augustin Grignon Jr. was a half-breed
Bon of the elder Augustin, and was employed in the fur-trade. He was
kilted by Oshkosh's eldest son because he refused to allow him to
drink in his cabin. Ahconemay (Aconnamie) was tried and sentenced
to state prison; but after a year or more he was pardoned by the gov-
ernor and returned to the reservation in Shawano County. — Ed.
"This chief was about seven or eight years younger than Oshkosh,
and took part with the Menominee in most of their activities; see Wis.
Hist. Colls., iii, passim,. — Ed.
"Charley Carron, well-educated and of fine* physique, was a noted
leader of the half-breeds in dare-devil exploits. See R. G. Thwaites,
"History of Winnebago County," in Oshkosh Times for 1876. — Ed.
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He was in the Indian trade at that place until 1854, when he
moved to Grand Rapids. While he was in trade he had several
narrow escapes from being killed by Indians ; was shot at
three or four times, and stabbed as many times with a knife.
He has stabbed several of the Indians himself. He is still liv-
ing, spending most of his time at Grand Rapids and Plover on
the "Wisconsin.
The Indian called The Rubber, I knew well; Augustin
Grignon has correctly portrayed him. 44 He was of a boasting
disposition, fond of representing himself as a hero of exploits
of which no one else had any knowledge; especially claiming
to have pre-eminently befriended the Americans and the
American cause, when others were aiding the British. This was
to gain favor in the eyes of the American military officers, in
the shape of a frequent friendly dram. The Rubber was also
accustomed to claim gifts from the old settlers at the Bay, on
pretence that he was the owner of the territory; but the other
Indians would laugh at his pretence to either the ownership of
land or to prominence. He died about 1839, somewhere along
the shore of Green Bay, perhaps at Grass Point, some eight or
nine miles below Green Bay. It was at a time when a large
number of the Indians were encamped there with the cholera,
and they were prohibited from coming up to Green Bay. Dr.
Crane, 45 who yet resides at Green Bay, was employed by the
government to attend them, and I used to accompany him on
his daily visits as interpreter. The doctor left a quantity of
mustard with the Indians, with directions to put a plaster of it
over the breast of any one attacked with the disease. The next
day when he visited the camp, we were surprised not to see a
solitary person stirring anywhere. "Are the poor fellows all
dead?" we enquired of each other. But on entering the wig-
wams, every Indian, old and young, was found spread flat upon
his back, covered with a mustard plaster. All had resorted to
it, as a precaution against the dread disease, of which large
"See Wis. Hist. Colls., iii, pp. 280, 281.— Ed.
"The date must have been later, for Dr. C. E. Crane did not settle
In Green Bay until 1846. He was born in Ohio, 1827, and died at
Green Bay 1897. During the War of Secession he was surgeon for the
5th Wisconsin, and later mayor of his adopted city (1874-79). — Ed.
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numbers of them had died — I think The Rubber was among
them.
Most of these prominent Menominee chiefs were members of
the Catholic church, and the dates of their deaths must be on
record at the mission ; but there is no priest there now. Maybe
the Indian agents kept some record of their deaths ; but I hardly
think that probable.
As late as 1830, quite a number of Menominee, several chiefs
among them, went to Drummond Island 46 and got British
presents, guns, traps, brass kettles, ammunition, etc. Col.
[George] Boyd, the American Indian agent, 47 on learning of
this fact, warned the chiefs that if any of them went there again
their medals would be taken away from them, and they would
no longer have any claim upon the American government. This
firm action on the part of the colonel had the desired effect of
breaking off the British influence.
At this time [1877], the tribe numbers about 1350 souls.
Black Hawk War
In 1832, when the Sauk War broke out, 4S General Atkinson"
sent Col. William S. Hamilton 50 with instructions to the Indian
agent, Colonel Boyd, to enlist the Menominee and appoint
proper commanding officers. Col. C. S. Stambaugh, who had
formerly been connected with the Indian service, and then re-
sided at Green Bay, was selected to command the Menominee^
who were 480 in number, divided into companies. Augustin
Grignon was captain of one, with Charles A. Grignon his son,
for first-lieutenant, and George Grignon his nephew, second-lieut-
** For a sketch of the British post on Drummond Island see Wis. Hist.
Colls., xix, p. 146, note 94. The post was removed in 1828. For the
prolonged British influence over the tribes on American soil see Id,
xx, passim. — Ed.
47 For this person see Id, xii, pp. 266-269.— Ed.
"For papers on the Green Bay contingent in the Black Hawk War,
Bee Id, ill, pp. 293-295; xii, pp. 217-298.— Ed.
49 For Gen. Henry Atkinson consult Id, i, ii, iv, passim. — Ed.
W A biographical sketch of William S. Hamilton is given in Id, xii,
pp. 270, 271.— Ed.
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•enant. George Johnston commanded the other company, with
William Powell first, and Robert Grignon second-lieutenant,
while James M. Boyd, a young son of Colonel Boyd, was third-
lieutenant and secretary of the company. Alexander Irwin was
quartermaster.'"' 1
We went to Fort Winnebago by land. There Stambaugh re-
ceived word from General Atkinson of the Bad Axe affair 32 and
an order, since the war was now virtually ended, directing him
to return to Green Bay and disband the Menominee. The latter
were very desirous of going to Prairie du Chien, as they had'
some relatives and friends residing there, and they probably
had some curiosity to go to headquarters and learn all they
could about the war. So Stambaugh sent Robert Grignofi and
me with dispatches to meet Gen. [Winfield] Scott, who was
expected at Prairie du Chien, and make known this earnest
wish of the Menominee ; and say that he would march in that
direction. From the Blue Mounds, Grignon returned accord-
ing to instructions, while I continued on alone to Prairie du
Chien, where General Scott had just arrived on board of a
steamboat. I delivered to him the dispatches, and he sent me
back with dispatches to Stambaugh. Information had just
reached General Scott at the very time I appeared, that a hos-
tile party of Sauk and Foxes, said to be a hundred in number,
were wending their way clown the Mississippi by land. So
General Scott concluded to gratify the Menominee and di-
rected Stambaugh and his Indians to repair to Brunet's Ferry,
at Little Rock, a few miles above the mouth of the Wisconsin, 53
and thence proceed to intercept those Sauk and Foxes. This
permission gratified the Menominee. I overtook tbe party about
"See Ibid, p. 278, note 1.— Ed.
02 See Ibid, pp. 257-261.— Ed.
03 Brunet's Ferry, which for many years has been in disuse, had its
southern end in Grant County (section 14, range 6 west, township 6
north), and crossed the Wisconsin in a northwest direction. It was es-
tablished in 1837 under license from the territorial legislature by Jean
Brunet, a French-Canadian of Prairie du Chien, and was on the mili-
tary road from Fort Winnebago to Fort Crawford. Probably, however,
Brunet had lived at this place for some years previous to securing a
license, and was in the habit of aiding travellers across the 1 river. — Ed.
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forty miles above Prairie du Chien. On reaching Brunet's
Ferry, Lieutenant Boyd and I were sent to Prairie du Chien
for provisions and any later news about the hostile party. Aug-
ustin Grignon is mistaken in saying that Col. William S. Ham-
ilton had anything to do with this expedition, for he had not,
and was not along.
Among the Menominee chiefs was Ahkamotte — not La Motte,
as Grignon has it — selected by the Indians on this expedition as
their prophet, and he held powwows every night to determine
where the enemy were.
Colonel Stambaugh with a hundred warriors and six chiefs —
Oshkosh, Grizzly Bear, Pewautenot, Souligny, Ahkamotte, and
Poegonah — started to pursue the hostiles. They struck the
trail and followed it, expecting it would lead to the river not
far below the mouth of the Wisconsin ; but it bore off from the
river. Lieutenants Powell and Boyd, with the remainder of the
Indians, some 200 in number, except those sick and sorefooted,
were ordered to go direct to the Mississippi and follow its bank,
to intercept the enemy should they attempt to cross that river.
There were no prominent chiefs with Powell and Boyd; all had
gone with Stambaugh, thinking that he would have the expected
fight, and reap the honors. Each of these parties kept out spies.
About five miles back of Cassville, r>4 in the interior, the next
day after leaving Brunet's Ferry in pursuit, they found the
enemy camped by a little stream between four and five o'clock
in the afternoon. The Sauk and Foxes had had four days the
start, but made slow progress, as they had to stop and hunt for
their living. The hostiles would keep on the trail for a few
miles, then would scatter awhile, then reunite and go on together
again. Robert Grignon, Sacketook (son of Poegonah) and two
others were in advance spying, and discovered the enemy in a
hollow, cooking their venison. They returned and thus re-
ported. The Indians were formed into four parties — one led
by Augustin Grignon and the Prophet, with Oshkosh and Poe-
gonah ; another party by Robert Grignon ; Alexander Irwin led
another; and Lieut. C. A. Grignon the fourth. Captain Johns-
84 The only other printed description of the battle of Cassville known
to us; is that of Grignon in Wis. Hist. Colls., iii, pp. 293-295.— Ed.
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ton and Colonel Stambaugh remained with the Prophet's party
— Johnston because he was somewhat advanced in years. 05
Just before starting, about half a mile from the hostile camp,
Stambaugh made a brief speech to the Indians, saying to them :
"Take prisoners. Your Great Father will give you more for
one prisoner than he would for a dozen scalps;" and he charged
the officers to enforce this order. Grizzly Bear responded in
Menominee, Charles A. Grignon interpreting: "Tell our Father
here that the Great Spirit saw proper to put a switch in the
hands of our Sauk and Fox enemies to chastise us last year,
which they did at Prairie du Chien, killing a good many of
our people. Now he has seen proper to put that same switch
into our hands to-day, which I cannot prevent my young war-
riors from using. Tell our Father also, that since we left
Green Bay we have been obedient children to all his commands;]
but in this matter about not taking scalps, we must be excused
if we fail to regard it."
The Prophet had a large, valuable wampum belt, seven feet
long and a foot and a half wide, very heavy; it must have cost
fully $70, being made of stone wampum beads, alternately grey
and white, from Van Dieman's Land. This was to be the re-
ward for the first scalp to lie brought to the Prophet. He also
had a flute upon which he was to blow a shrill, loud whistle as a
signal for the several parties to raise the war-whoop when they
had taken the places assigned them, completely surrounding
the enemy. When the signal was given, and the war-whoop
raised, they were but a quarter of a mile from the Sauk camp,
and it was but a few moments till the whole were rushing down
upon them, whooping and hallooing. One of the Sauk fired,
but without effect, save to hit off the breech of the gun of
Saunapow, or The Ribbon. The latter quickly returned the
fire, killing him, when several ran to get the scalp ; but Sauna-
pow got the main scalp, and others some smaller scalps. Then
there was a race for the Prophet, but Saunapow won and re-
ceived the prize belt, the Prophet keeping the scalp, and thank-
ing the young warrior for a valuable gift. Some of the Sauk
women and four or five children seeing that Robert Grignon
61 For a brief sketch of this person see Id, xx. — Ed.
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was a white man and approaching the nearest, ran toward him
and threw themselves at his feet for protection. Among these
was a young warrior, about seventeen years old, who dropped
his gun, seeing the hopelessness of the unequal contest, and
ran mixing in with the women, and Robert Grignon protected
him. Meanwhile some of the Sauk and Foxes ran and hid be-
hind some boulders near by, and one of these was firing from
behind a boulder, about half way up the hill, when Grignon
started after him, with a Menominee close beside him. The
concealed Sauk fired, apparently intending to shoot the Me-
nominee, but the bullet struck Robert Grignon, hitting a rib, and
coursed around, lodging in the small of the back. About the
same moment Grignon received the fire of another Indian, two
buckshot entering his left shoulder. "Whereupon the Menom-
inee rushed up and shot the one who first wounded Grignon,
killed him, and hacked him up, and kept at him till there was
little left of him.
Among the Sauk was a Winnebago with whom some of the
Menominee in Calumet had intermarried, and recognized his na-
tionality. He held up his hands and prayed for mercy in the
Winnebago language; whereupon a lame Menominee, Okeemon-
sah, or Little Chief, ran up, and said : ' ' I have been many times
to war, and from my lameness was always a little too late ; now
I will not return without a scalp; you can be no good Winne-
bago to be with our enemies." Thereupon he gave him a
sudden stab with his spear, when he fell, and the Menominee
seized his scalp lock, whereupon the Winnebago seized him by
the hand on his scalp; but with the free hand Okeemonsah
quickly encircled his head, gave him a kick in the back of the
neck, and stripped off the scalp, and the poor victim, just after
another Menominee had walked up and shot him through the
head, soon expired.
Augustin Grignon, naturally very tender-hearted, walked up,
and was much touched with such savage conduct; a tear
was observed by Grizzly Bear to trickle down Grignon 's
cheek — Grizzly Bear was an uncommonly large Indian, over
six feet, a brawny man, weighing fully 250 pounds. He said
to Grignon, "What are you crying for? Was this fellow one
of your kindred? If not, you had better go home and join the
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squaws, who alone indulge in weeping." Grignon gave the
old chief a lefthand blow across the mouth, replying that no
brave warrior would indulge in such a horrid carnage; that he
should be satisfied after having killed his f oe ; " now ' ', he cried,
"since you are so brave a man, resent this, and defend your-
self," giving him another blow. But Grizzly Bear, though as
well armed as Grignon, refrained from returning blows. Three
other Indians were killed in the melee, and a small child on
its mother's back was shot through the body between the
shoulders, the ball lodging in the mother's clothing. She did
not discover that the child was dead, or even hit, till after
the affair was over.
The skirmish lasted but a few minutes — the Sauk keeping the
Menominee at bay, by getting behind the rocks and boulders.
Eighteen women were taken prisoners, a boy some eight years
old, and three or four younger children.
Just as the affair was over, Colonel Stambaugh came up. and
wished to shake hands with the chiefs. Grizzly Bear wanted
to know what the colonel wanted to shake hands for — it was
only a few minutes ago that they parted. Stambaugh ex-
plained, however, that he wished to do it to express his pleasure
at their success ; but he had no word to say about the scalps.
Boyd and I, with our party, heard the distant firing, and
were approaching to take part. Between the river and the battle-
ground, we met four Menominee carrying by hand Robert Grig-
non on a litter of a blanket stretched between two poles — mean-
ing to watch an opportunity to get some sort of water convey-
ance to Prairie du Chien. My whole party then returned to
Brunet's Ferry, two Indians taking Grignon up in a canoe
which they got from some settler; and the young Sauk lad,
who was taken prisoner, went up with them.
On the way to Brunet's Ferry, my party and Stambaugh 's
met and went on together, reaching Brunet's the next day.
But the night after the fight, Stambaugh and party stopped at a
little village where they met General Dodge and Colonel Hamil-
ton, without soldiers, these having been disbanded after the battle
of Bad Axe. They got plenty of liquor, for Dodge and Hamil-
ton were treating the Indians freely. The latter indulged in
great boasting 1 as to who took the most scalps; by their repre-
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sentation, one would have thought that a great battle had been
fought, and hundreds of scalp trophies taken.
After reaching Brunet's Ferry, all the prisoners were as-
signed to me to convey without any guard to the fort at Prairie
du Chien, seven miles distant. When about half way there, I
met Wistweaw, the Blacksmith, somewhat in liquor. He was
one of those who had conveyed Robert Grignon in a canoe to
Prairie du Chien, and approached us begging the privilege of
killing the young Sauk and taking his scalp home, so that he
could say he had a war trophy — otherwise he would have noth-
ing to relate, only cooking pork and dough-boys. But I refused,
saying that the prisoners were confided to me to take and de-
liver at the fort. Still the Indian plead, and finally made a
lunge with his knife at the young Indian who was close to me,
but the latter saw the action in time to dodge the blow. Then
the Blacksmith was compelled to desist, but ever afterwards he
lamented his great misfortune in failing to secure that scalp.
When the news reached Prairie du Chien of the prisoners
taken near Cassville, the women of the Menominee band residing
at the Prairie, some of whose husbands and brothers had been
killed by the Sauk and Foxes the year before, came to Brunet's
Ferry, seven miles, to seek revenge. These squaws, to the num-
ber of about twenty, arranged themselves on each side of the
path. When Stambaugh's party and prisoners crossed at the
ferry and landed on the north side, Oshkosh in particular sug-
gested that these Menominee women be examined to see whether
they had any weapons with which they could injure the Sauk
squaws. Upon search being made, several of them were found
to have small tomahawks and knives concealed under their
clothing. These were taken from them. But as the Sauk pris-
oners passed between the rows of Menominee women, the latter
availed themselves of an Indian custom for each to touch the
prisoners as they passed. Some barely touched them tenderly
with the tips of their fingers, while others seized them by their
hair and shook and jerked them about without mercy. The Sauk
women were rejoiced to get off without worse treatment. They
were kept in duress a short time in the garrison at Prairie du
Chien, then sent down to Rock Island, and soon after discharged.
After a few days of recruiting and preparation, the Menom-
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inee returned home, scattering from Butte cles Morts. Robert
Grignon remained some time in the hospital at Prairie du Chien.
Doctor Beaumont"' easily extracted the buckshot from his
shoulder; but the ball in his back could not with safety be
taken out. Grignon drew a pension of $15 per month and
lived till he froze to death, near his own house, not far from
Christmas, about twelve years ago. 57
Makata Mishekakah, or the Black Falcon, was the name the
Sauk and Foxes gave Col. Zaehary Taylor. Ahchechawk, or the
White Crane, was their name for General Scott. Black Hawk
claimed that he surrendered himself, as he had heard that in
case he did so, all the prisoners would be released. On reaching
Prairie du Chien, Colonel Taylor brought out handcuffs to put
on him. "Why do you want to put the handcuffs on me when
I have given myself up and can 't get away ; I had expected
better treatment from the Black Falcon." Taylor replied that
it was not his wish to do so, and that he was sorry so to treat
him; but he was himself but a small chief, and had to obey the
orders of his superiors; and these were the orders of the big
chief, the White Crane. Then Black Hawk said that he had
supposed the Black Falcon was too humane to treat him thus;
but as these were the orders of the White Crane, then do so —
whereupon he extended his hands and received the handcuffs.
At the treaty at Rock Island, General Scott had Black Hawk
degraded from his chieftainship and Keokuk appointed in his
place. Keokuk rose and addressed Black Hawk, saying that
this was not of his own seeking, that he regretted Black Hawk's
degradation ; but the latter had, contrary to his advice, plunged
himself and people into the war, and the Great Father had
taken the chieftainship from him. Then Black Hawk addressed
General Scott, asking why he who had not conferred this honor
upon him. could have the power to deprive him of it. Pointing
"For Dr. William Beaumont see Id, xv, p. 397, note 4. — Ed.
" Robert Grignon was the' eldest son of Pierre Antoine, himself the
eldest of the Grignon brothers. Robert was born about 1804 at Green
Bay. He early entered the fur-trade, and was a clerk for his uncles,
settling first at Butte des Morts, later within the limits of Oshkosh. He
died in 1864, frozen near his own home, having become bewildered in a
storm. — Ed.
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his finger upward, he indicated that the One who had made
him a chief alone could unmake him.
Capt. William Powell
"When my father returned from Hudson Bay in 1822 and
left me in the care of Captain Alexander, I remained with him
three years a,t Fort Snelling. The captain being sent on a re-
cruiting service to St. Louis, took me with him, and during his
stay there sent me to school five miles from Belle Fontaine.
I remained there until the spring of 1827, when I came to
Rock Island, and stayed until the first of September, 1828,
when my father sent for me and I came home to Butte des
Morts. When I arrived where Portage City now is, Major
Twiggs had just got there with two or three companies of
United States troops to commence building the fort, which was
called Fort "Winnebago. 58 Twiggs was the commanding officer.
Jefferson Davis 59 was also there, just from West Point; he
w T as only second-lieutenant at that time.
Two years later, while Lieutenant Davis was stationed at
Fort Winnebago, Twiggs still commanding, a powerful Ken-
tuckian named Stewart, a carpenter by trade, dwelt there as
Daniel M. Whitney's agent in transporting boats over the portage.
There was a. camp of Menominee Indians near the American
Fur Company 's store, where Pierre Paquette lived, 00 and Stew-
art went over one day with a tanned deer skin to get some
moccasins made. It was a Sunday, and Davis happening to be
there, ordered him off. Stewart intimated that he had as much
right there as Davis had, and that he should go when he got
ready, and not before. Davis felt his dignity insulted, and gave
Stewart an unexpected and heavy blow. Stewart recovering,
pitched upon Davis and gave him a severe whipping, badly
bruising his face and eyes. I was then a clerk in the store, and
Davis had me get a chicken, kill it, and put the fresh carcass on
68 See account of this event and a sketch of Twiggs in Wis. Hist.
Colls., xiv, pp. 65-76.— Ed.
M On Davis at Fort Winnebago see Ibid, pp. 72-75; also Id, viii-
x, xii, xiii, passim. — Ed.
•• For an account of Pierre Paquette see Id, vii, pp. 382-385. — Ed.
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Powell's Recollections
his face, to prevent the bruises Prom leaving their discolored
marks. Stewart, himself brave, was persuaded by Mr. Whitney,
his employer, to leave for Green Bay, lest he should be re-
taliated on by Davis or his friends, and he subsequently
returned to Kentucky.
Except for a short time at the Portage, I remained with my
father at Butte des Morts until 1832, then went as first-lieuten-
ant in the Black Hawk War. After the war, 1 returned home
and went into partnership with Robert Grignon in the Indian
trade. We established our trading post at Algoma in the fall
of 1832, and continued at that place till the fall of 1835, when
we dissolved our copartnership and I went and lived with my
father until he died.
Treaties. I was appointed United States interpreter for the
Menominee in 1836. The same year, Gov. Henry Dodge of
Mineral Point was appointed commissioner to make a treaty
with the Menominee ; this was concluded September 3, 1836. 61
After the treaty I resigned and went into the Indian trade on
Fox River, two miles above where Omro now is, and continued
to trade there till 1846, when for a year I established a trading
post at the mouth of Shawano Creek, in Shawano County.
Then quitting the Indian trade, I was again appointed, in 1848,
United States interpreter and in that capacity served at the
treaty of that year. Medill was the commissioner on the part
of the Government in that treaty, wherein the Menominee ceded
all of their country that they owned in Wisconsin for $400,000.
By its terms the Government gave them for their future home
a tract of 500,000 acres of land on the Crow Wing River," 2 150
to 200 miles above St. Paul. They were to remain in Wisconsin
for two years after the ratifk-ation of the treaty, and then to
move to the Crow Wing. At the same time the Government
agreed to furnish $5,000 to defray the expenses of a delegation
of nine chiefs with their head chief Oshkosh to go and examine
the country, before removing in 1850.
Visit to Washington. President Taylor instructed Major
Bruce, Indian agent at Green Bay. to take a delegation of chiefs
"Powell was sworn interpreter at the* Menominee treaty of 1836. — Ed.
* The treaty guaranteed that there should not be less than 600,000
acres of land In the tract assigned. — Ed.
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and go and survey the land alloted them on the Crow Wing, and
after doing so to bring the same delegation to Washington and
report. I accompanied the delegation to the Crow Wing, and
with us went my old friend Charles Tullar, 63 who was employed
to survey the tract. He did not, however, go on with us to
Washington, as he had more important business that required
him to remain at Green Bay. Arriving at Washington on Sep-
tember 4 we remained there some two weeks before Oshkosh with
the other chiefs could get an interview with the commissioner
of Indian affairs. There were at the federal capital represent-
atives of several other tribes of Indians, who had business with
their great father, the president, who had got there some days
ahead of us; so we had to wait till our turn came. When the
time arrived, our Wisconsin chiefs were notified that they might
come and see their great father and talk over their business
with him. We conducted Chief Oshkosh and the rest of the
Indians to the commissioner's office at about 9 o'clock A. M.
Here we were received by Chief -clerk Charles E. Mix, acting in
the place of the commissioner, Mr. Lowrey, who was sick at the
time. After a short talk, Mr. Mix accompanied the delegation
to the office of the secretary of the interior, and from there the
latter conducted his visitors to the White House. After the
chiefs were seated according to rank, President Fillmore, accom-
panied by General Scott, entered and the chiefs were presented
and shook hands with both. Chief Oshkosh recognized General
Scott, for he had seen him both at Green Bay and at the treaty
at Prairie du Chien. The general also recollected Oshkosh, who
was a small man, standing only about five feet. When he shook
hands with the general, Oshkosh said: "You are like a tall pine
tree, and myself like a scrub-oak. so I stand under your branches
to protect my head from harm."
The interview with their Great Father was brief. Oshkosh
83 Charles Tullar was born in 1804 in Vermont. Coming to Green Bay
in 1830, he entered the employ of Daniel Whitney and was occupied in
lumbering, mining, surveying, etc. He acted as sheriff for Brown
County, 1836-43. He was accustomed to say that the happiest days of
his life were spent with William Powell, his close friend, surveying In-
dian reservations. The latter years of his life* were employed as agent
for the Whitney estate. He died at Green Bay Oct. 20, 1874.— Ed.
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Powell's Recollections
stated in a very few words that the Crow Wing country was
not what it had been represented to bis tribe by Commissioner
Medill, who made the treaty of 1848 ; and that the tribe did not
like to move to that country because the Indians already there
were continually engaged in intertribal war. He preferred, he
said, a home somewhere in Wisconsin, for the poorest region in
"Wisconsin was better than that of the Crow Wing. He said
that the latter was a good country for the white man, for he
was numerous and could protect himself from those warlike
tribes; but his own tribe was small, and he wished them to live
in peace for the little time they had to live. 64
The latter part of September 1 started from Washington for
Green Bay in charge of the delegation, and was instructed by
the department to stop at the largest Eastern cities a few days
and show the chiefs the principal places so as to give them an
idea how numerous their white brothers were. We stayed a week
in New York and went to Barnum's Museum every day. Bar-
num invited Oshkosh and his chiefs to come and hear the great
singer Jenny Lind, but Oshkosh declined the invitation. A few
of the younger chiefs went, however, but when they were asked
by tin 1 other chiefs how they liked the singing, they replied that
she made a. very big noise and then a little noise. The white
man must have a great deal more money than he needed, to pay
so much to hear this lady sing.
Henry Merrell errs in giving the name of Powell, the trader at
Green Lake, as William. 03 His first name was James, and he
was a cousin of mine. He came to Green Bay about 1833, and
engaged in the Indian trade ; in 1838 he moved west of the Mis-
sissippi, into Iowa, and I have since lost track of him.
M Permission was given to the Menominee to remain in Wisconsin,
which was afterwards confirmed by the treaty of 1854, assigning them
a reservation in Shawano County. — Ed.
66 See Wis Hist. Colls., vii. p. 387.— Ed.
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Wisconsin Historical Society
John B. Dubay
John B. Dubay 66 was son of a Canadian, whose name I think
was Louis. 67 He came here early ; his first wife was a Menominee
woman, daughter of the principal chief on the Menominee River,
named Pewatenot, and mentioned in Grignon's ''Narrative"
as serving in the War of 1812. He also had a son Louis, who
was only a voyageur. J. B. Dubay was at least four years
older than myself, certainly being born as early as 1806. When
a young man. he became a successful trader among the Chip-
pewa. When he went among the Indians, he would pitch his
large markee, fit it up neatly with folding seats and a showy
carpet, and invite the Indians there. Its attractive appearance
would fix their attention, they would feel honored by the atten-
tion and would be quite sure to give him their trade. Dubay
was known to them as Oskaatawananee, or the Flourishing
Young Trader.
In the early years of the Territory and State, he was fond of
going to Madison, where he spent his money freely, and would
send off to borrow more. Once he borrowed of me while I was
clerk in a. store of the American Fur Company in which Dubay
had an interest. I subsequently asked him what his business
was, there. "Why," said he, "I am a log member" — meaning
a lobby member ; he liked to boast that his company at the cap-
ital included prominent lawyers, judges, and legislators.
Once I was reminding him that he had neglected to be pres-
ent at a certain Chippewa treaty and secure his claim for cred-
its to Indians. "Oh." lie replied, "I shall not be too late, for
the payments have not all been paid: they are to be paid," he
said, "in slant" — meaning in installments. He had, he said,
sent his monster (remonstrance) to the Indian department, and
lie would be all right. But he lost it. He was fond of trying to
repeat big words, but would invariably make ridiculous work
*>f it.
'•See Ibid, pp. 391, 400-402. This statement of Powell is an addi-
tion to and correction of Merrell's narrative concerning Dubay, and
Draper's statement in a note that he was born in 1810. — Ed.
" The name was originally DubSe. Louis was living in Green Bay
as late* as 1836. — Ed.
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Powell's Recollections
Dubay had a fine appreciation of Indian character. He knew
well how to gain the confidence and the patronage of his red
brethren, and thus acquired a considerable influence over them.
Had he had a good education, lie would have made his mark in
the world.
In killing Reynolds, he was advised by lawyers that he had
rights that he should protect, and he thought he was doing only
what was justifiable. But he was naturally a high-toned, gen-
erous-hearted man ; and when he came to reflect that he had
taken the life of a fellow man. though acquitted of criminal in-
tent, it preyed upon his mind, and he has never since been the
man he was before. lie now (1877) resides above Stevens
Point.
Origin and Meaning of Indian Names
Ashkeoton (town, Brown Co.) — The Crier, name of an In-
dian.
Assippun. or Ashippun (town, Dodge Co.) — The Raccoon.
Brule (river, Douglas Co.) — Burnt timber; Indian word We-
saueota, in both Menominee and Chippewa.
Buffalo (lake, Marquette Co.) — Pesahkeoconnee, a great buf-
falo range in early times. I never saw any buffalo in Wisconsin,
nor have the oldest Menominee in their day. Iometah and
others used to say that their fathers killed and drove them off.
Butte des Morts (lake and town, Winnebago Co.) — Pahqua-
tenohsah was the Indian word for Little Butte des Morts, mean-
ing small mound of the dead. Maspahquatenoh is big mound of
the dead — "nob." meaning dead.
Embarrass (river, tributary to Wolf) — Indian word was Ok-
quinoe Saparo, or Boating wood. The French adopted this and
called it La Riviere s' embarrass (the river that is "embarrass-
ed,'" or interrupted, by driftwood).
Kekoskee (town. Dodge Co.) — Of Winnebago origin.
Keshena (town, Shawano Co.) — The Scudding Cloud, named
after a Menominee chief yet living, son of Josette, second chief,
and son-in-law of Pewatenot.
Kewaskum (town, Washington Co.) — Name of a Menominee
Indian, The Turner: one who has power as a medicine man to
turn things as he pleases.
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Wisconsin Historical Society
Kewaunee (comity and town) — A specie of duck.
Koshkonong (town, Rock Co.) — Not Menominee; probably Po-
tawatomi in origin.
Manitowoc (county and town) — Place of spirits.
Markesan (village, Green Lake Co.) — Probably a Winnebago
word.
Maskee — Indian word for marsh.
Mazomanie (town, Dane Co.) — Place of iron deposits, a "Win-
nebago word.
Meeme (town, Manitowoc Co.) — The Pigeon.
Menominee — thus Captain Powell spells the name. The plural
is Omahnominewowk, or Wild Rice People, as they call them-
selves. They still harvest wild rice in Shawano Lake and other
lakes above, but do not use it to the same extent as formerly.
Mishicott (town, Manitowoc Co.) — Hairy Leg.
Mukwonago, or Maquonigo (town, Waukesha Co.) — Of Pota-
Avatomi origin.
Nashotah (town, Waukesha Co.) — Twin, a Potawatomi word.
Necedah (town, Juneau Co.) — Winnebago word.
Neosho (town, Dodge Co.) — Either Winnebago or Potawatomi
word.
Neshkoro (town, Marquette Co.) — Winnebago word.
Oconomowoc (county and town) — Probably Potawatomi.
Oconto (county and town) — The place of the pickerel.
Okee (town, Columbia Co.) — Winnebago word.
Ozaukee (county) — The Sauks.
Paekwaukee, or Pakwaukea (town, Marquette Co.) — The
Mound, a natural elevation.
Pensaukee (river and town, Oconto Co.) — The place of the
brant — a species of small wild geese.
Peshtigo, properly Pasheteco (town, Marinette Co.) — Passing
through the marsh.
Powaaconnee — Poygan abbreviated.
Poygan (lake, Winnebago Co.) — The threshing place (for
rice).
Poynette (town, Columbia Co.) — Perhaps of Winnebago or-
igin.
Poysippi vtown, Waushara Co.) — Same as Poygan, with sippi,
(meaning river) added.
Puckaway vlake, Green Lake Co.) — Cat Tail Flag.
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Powells Recollections
Shawano (lake and county) — South; the eounly was named
from the lake : Shawano, or South, Lake. I could not learn
from the Menominee how this name was derived. Oshkosh
once said to me that his ancestors told him a prophet from the
South visited the Menominee, and first made his appearance
at the Shawano Lake, proclaiming himself a prophet from the
South; that he was going to change things generally, to reform
their medical remedies and reform their government, and then
they would live much longer. I am satisfied, since it has been
explained to me about Tecumseh's brother the Prophet, that he
was the one who came to the Menominee about 1810 and aimed
at their reform ; and that he was the one whom Oshkosh referred
to and described.
Sheboygan (county and town) — Properly Chapewyaconnee,
a Menominee word, meaning a rumbling subterranean sound, as
if it were a spirit sound, heard in the lake at the mouth of the
river, at that point. Solomon Juneau used to state to me that
it w r as a Potawatomi word, and meant the place of the mermaid.
Suamico (river, Brown Co.) — Red Sand River.
Taycheedah (town, Fond du Lac Co.) — A Winnebago name.
"Waucousta (town, Fond du Lac Co.) — Not a Menominee word.
Waukesha, or Waukeshoon (county and town) — Something
about a fox.
Waupaca (river, county, and town) — The dawning of the
morning. The French endeavored to give the meaning by call-
ing it To-Morrow River.
Waupun (town, Fond du Lac Co.) — Day-break or dawn.
Waushara (county) — A Winnebago word.
Wautoma (town, Waushara Co.) — Not a Menominee word.
Wanseka (town, Crawford Co.) — A W r innebago word.
Welaunee (town, Winnebago Co.) — A Winnebago word.
Weyauwega (town, Waupaca Co.) — Named by Judge Doty
after an Indian Weauweya, said to have lived there and claimed
the country. But others said that the name of the locality came
from Weyawaca, the grand encampment, as it was a noted In-
dian camping place. This latter seems to me most probable.
Winneconne (town, Winnebago Co.) — The place of the skulL
a battleground, where some of the Sauk and Foxes were chased
by the French and Menominee at the Butte des Morts battle.
See ante, p. 150.
Wyocena (tow r n, Columbia Co.) — A Winnebago word.
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
By John Wallace Arndt 1
The site on which the present city of Green Bay is built, was
in 1824 covered with a forest of many kinds of trees and much
underbrush, with here and there a bit of swamp. A narrow strip
of grassland, about two hundred feet in width, extended from
what is now Main Street along the river shore to the slough near
Doty Street. The east side of what is now Washington Street
1 John Wallace Arndt, son of John P. Arndt, a well-known early
Innkeeper of Green Bay, was born at Wilkesbarre, Pa., Sept. 15, 1815.
At the age of nine, John Wallace Arndt removed with his father to
Green Bay, there attending school and assisting his father in trans-
porting goods on the Fox River of Wisconsin. In 1834 he went to
school in the East and was for a time at Yale College. He studied
law with his brother Charles, but never was admitted to the bar, and
settled in De Pere, where his homestead is still standing. In 1842 he
married Mary C, daughter of Randall Wilcox. Arndt died at De Pere
Jan. 12, 1897. In 1894 he published a pamphlet entitled The Early
History of Green Bay and the Fox River Valley. Personal Reminis-
censes. From this pamphlet, privately printed and now rare, we ex-
tract and greatly condense the following narrative, which has several
points of excellence: its intimate account of the introduction to
Wisconsin waters, in 1825, of the Durham boat, invented in 1750 by
Robert Durham of Bucks County, Pa. — for further details of this craft
see R. G. Thwaites (ed.), Early Western Travels (Cleveland, Ohio, 1904
-07), ix, p. 323; its glimpses of several important pioneer settlers in
the Fox River valley; its detailed description of the interesting old
Pierre Grignon house at Green Bay; and its graphic chronicle of a
typical voyage of a Durham boat from Green Bay to Fort Winnebago
(Portage) and return, in 1830. — Ed.
[180]
John P. Akndt (1780-1861)
From oil portrait by Samuel M. Brookes, in possession of the Society
Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
-corresponds with the line where the woods and the grass met.
This strip was a favorite camping ground for the Indians.
A man by the name of Kelso had built a small log house, which
he used as a dwelling and store, on the lots where the Cook
House now stands. He afterwards moved to Wrightstown.
There was no other building or evidence of any, north of the
slough, except the remains of a shabbily-built barn made of
small, round poles, near the foot of Doty Street.
The road between Green Bay and De Pere began at the slough
and followed the trend of the river, passed west of Pierre Grig-
non's old house, and then about twenty feet east of John P.
Arndt's dwelling. It then passed to the west of Judge Lawe's
place, following the bank of the river on the same track where
the railroad is now, until it struck the high land below Louis
Grignon's house, where it turned up into the present road, and
so on to De Pere.
Destruction of an Old House
Pierre Grignon's old house stood near the intersection of Stu-
art and Washington streets, about two-hundred feet south of
the slough, and the same distance from Fox River. 2 It fronted
the west, was fifty feet square and one-and-a-half stories high,
with its gables north and south. It was built of pine logs, hewn
and dressed with the plane, until they lay fiat 10x12 inches. In
laying up this timber the workmen had nicely dovetailed each
corner, making a very close joint — in fact, this was the case
throughout the building, great pains having apparently been
taken to do the work well.
The roof way very steep, covered with cedar bark, now nearly
six inches thick. There were many layers of the cedar covering,
2 This seems to have been the house that Pierre Grignon built, de-
scribed as follows by his son Augustin in Wis. Hist. Colls., iii, p. 253:
"When my father erected a new house, about 1790, he had to send to
Montreal for a carpenter and mason; his house was a hewed log build-
ing, and at that time was regarded as altogether the best at Green
Bay." It was probably in this house that Pierre Grignon's widow
(Madame Langevin) died in 1823. See references to this place in Id,
xx, passim. — Ed.
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Wisconsin Historical Society
showing that it had frequently been repaired without removing
the old bark.
The upper floor was supported by heavy beams, 12x14 inches
in size, crossing the building east and west, four feet apart, and
dressed with an inch bead worked on the lower corners. The
floors were all made of two-inch pine plank, dressed, plowed,
and grooved. All of the partitions were dressed in the same way,
but on both sides. There were two chimneys, one on each gable,
built of limestone and flush with the outside of the timbers, show-
ing the stone from top to base. The fireplaces were high and
broad, projecting well into the room, and could easily take in a
four-foot log.
The first floor of the house was divided into four rooms be-
sides a vestibule, in the following manner : A 25x30 feet room
was in the southwest corner ; on the east side of this large room
were two bedrooms, 15x15 feet square, opening into it. The
kitchen was a large room in the northeast corner, with a door
opening to the east, also an inner door entering the vestibule on
the west side. The main entrance to the house was through this
vestibule, in the northwest corner, where also was the stairway
and a door leading into the large front room. In this latter
room was one of the fireplaces, also two triangular closets, one
in its northeast, and the other in the southwest corner, made
of pine ; each with four doors, two below and two above. The
two upper doors of each closet were ornamented with a carving
in demi-relief, representing the royal insignia of France — the
fleur-des-lis. How meritorious the carving w r as w 7 hen first made,
I cannot tell. It was not protected with paint or varnish; old
age had dimmed its outlines and dulled its sharp relief. Yet
there was enough left to show what it Avas intended to represent.
It is a pity these doors were lost, for they never can be dupli-
cated.
Over the main entrance of the house was a portico, which
showed considerable artistic taste and skill. The windows were
but few and small. The upper story was without divisions,
save the supports of each rafter; there were two windows in the
north gable, on each side of the chimney.
This old house with its surroundings and the farm on which it
stood, plainly showed the intelligence and enterprise of the man
who planned and built it. Across the road, west of the house,
[182]
Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
stood the store, a well-constructed building, 20x30, two stories
high. Nearer the river, a few rods west, were the ruins of an-
other building, probably a storehouse. About fifty feet north
•of the house was a building larger than the store, built in the
same style as the house, two stories high, and divided into two
rooms, which undoubtedly were used for storing grain and pro-
visions. A large square garden of about two acres southeast of
the house was enclosed by a fence beginning at the southwest
corner, running south on a line with the house, then turning east
.and north — the north fence meeting the house near its middle
on the east side. The fence was seven or eight feet high, built
of cedar posts eight feet apart, a rabbet being made on each
side of the pest, and shakes of cedar filled the space ; a cap or
coping was secured on top with tenon and mortise. North of
the house, and on a line with the west front, was a fence similar
to that of the garden and extending to the slough.- In this fence
and close to the house was placed a large gateway, with a smaller
one on the side, through which the road passed to the barns at
the east.
A few rods east of the garden was a large barn which stood
with its gables north and south, nearly a hundred feet long,
thirty feet wide, and eighteen or twenty feet to the plate, with
three bays, two threshing floors, and four sets of double doors.
It was built entirely of cedar except the roof, which was made
with tamarack poles and thatched with straw. The same plan
was used as in building the garden fence, only the timber wa3
much larger; massive cedar trees were used for posts, but set
farther apart, the plates and other timber used being much
larger. It was an immense barn; I think it would have stored
five or six hundred tons of hay, and remained standing several
years after we moved here.
About a hundred feet east of the barn, and at a right angle,
was the horse and cow stable, built in the same fashion as the
home buildiugs, of hewn pine but thatched with straw. Around
these buildings was the accumulation of forty years or more of
rotten straw and manure, covering more than an acre and in
some places four or five feet thick. It took father a long time
to remove and spread it on the farm, a part of which he rented
and cultivated many years. The cleared and cultivated part
of the farm at that time extended from a point a little north of
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Doty Street south to Judge Lawe's north line, and east to Van
Buren Street and Webster Avenue.
Before we leave the old house and garden, so familiar to me
in early youth, I will relate my connection with it. In 1825
father rented the garden, together with the farm, and from that
time to the platting of Astor he used it for his family. Here 1
served my apprenticeship in gardening. The house being much
out of repair, was used only at short intervals during the sum-
mer and by a worthless set, which caused some sacrilegious per-
son to dub it the "Nunnery." Over on Duck Creek, where he
spent his winters, making shingles and cutting cord wood, was
a discharged soldier named Marsdon, who was married to a
squaw; when a white man took a squaw to wife he took the
whole family, sisters, brothers-in-law, aunts, and cousins. In
summer, Marsdon and his numerous family moved to the city,
the females not liking the loneliness of rural life. Without
leave or license they took possession of this old house.
This sounded the knell of the once grand old house. Father
purchased it with the privilege of tearing it down. My brother
Charles and I, with men to help us, began the work of destruc-
tion. Our plan was first to remove the supports to the roof, as
far as we thought it safe to the workmen ; then we undermined
the chimneys, so that when the roof fell it would carry them
with it. This part of the work being done we awaited the re-
sult. The roof being covered with so many layers of cedar bark,
had become rotten and porous and absorbed water like a sponge.
In a few days a storm came, a regular northeaster; the wind
blew and the rain poured on that devoted roof, and in the
darkness of night the crash came, carrying destruction with it.
The ruin was complete ; nothing remained standing but a part
of the outside walls.
Could these walls have spoken, they would have told of de-
liberate councils held within, debating the chances of peace or
war, of trade and commerce. They would have told of festive
scenes, the table loaded with fish, flesh, and fowl, gathered by
the hunters' skill from the river, lake, and forest. They would
have told, too, of music and the dance, so dear to the gay and
festive Frenchmen. Thither came native chiefs and warriors;
white men also, for trade and profit ; others for the mere love
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
of exploration — men wise in council, strong in war, who led that
host of savages who surprised and defeated Braddock. 3
American Pioneers
In 1624, when father first landed on the shores of Fox River,*
he was just forty-two years old, in full health and strength of
body and mind, well equipped for the labor he wished to under-
take. From the early age of eighteen years, until his father's
death (in 1802) he had been connected with him in business —
milling, lumbering, merchandizing, and other occupations, such
as building Durham boats. The last-named industry made a
large and for many years a successful business. Grandfather
Arndt was a shrewd and intelligent man ; he knew how to make
money, how to keep and to use it. His firm took the lead in
Wilkesbarre, Luzern County, Pennsylvania. After his death,
his only son and heir w T as my father, who took full control of
the business and was successful until the crisis of 1815-16, and
its crash. Thus he brought with him to this region the experi-
ence of more than twenty years of business success and failure.
Father was much interested in the navigation and improve-
ment of the Fox and Wisconsin rivers. The project was much
discussed among the few leading business men — James Doty,
Daniel Whitney, the two Irwin brothers, John Lawe, the Grig-
nons, and some others. This was the beginning of the Fox
River Company, to demonstrate the feasibility of freighting on
the Fox River in its natural state, in a reasonable time, and at
a fair profit.
In the spring of 1825 father built the first Durham boat,
ecpiipped and loaded it with a stock of goods for Fever River
(now Galena), where a store was opened, The plan was to
purchase lead, and transport it to Green Bay by the way of the
Wisconsin and Fox rivers, thereby opening another outlet for
the lead to the Eastern market.
8 Referring to the well-known tradition that Charles Langlade, father-
in-law of Pierre Grignon, led the Indians in the fatal attack on Brad-
dock in 1755 — 'many years, however, before this house was built. — Ed.
4 For a brief biographical sketch of John P. Arndt see Wis. Hist.
Colls., xx. — Ed.
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This business was put in charge of a man by the name of
Abbot, a good business man, one who knew all about Durham
boats. He had been in father 's employ at Wilkesbarre for many
years. After a year's trial the project was given up, the whole
difficulty being in navigating the Wisconsin; the Fox was all
right. Though the first attempt was a partial failure, nothing
daunted, the boat building went on.
Treaty of Butte des Morts
In 1827 a commission was appointed, headed by Lewis Cass,
governor of Michigan. The commissioners located the treaty
at Little Butte des Morts, just where the Chicago & Northwest-
ern railroad turns on the west bank to cross Lake Butte des
Morts to Menasha. This had been a favorite cemetery for the
Indians, but most of it has since been removed to make room
for the railway. At the time of the excavations, many curi-
osities were found, such as stone and copper axes, arrow heads,
spears or lance heads, and heaps of bones. In preparation for
the treaty, there was planted on the apex of this mound a tall
fiag-staff, from which floated the stars-and-stripes.
The buildings for the governor and his suite were placed near
the mound, while the camps of the different tribes were situated
some distance from headquarters. Those natives friendly to
one another were by themselves; those disposed to be quarrel-
some were placed apart from the peaceful, for fear some old
feud might be revived. The Indian neither forgets nor forgives.
These small native encampments presented a novel sight to
the stranger, in the neatness with which they were built and
the ingenuity displayed in the use of scant material. A few
small poles stuck in the ground were covered with rush mats
or dressed skins, a hole being left in the top for the smoke to
escape. Such wigwams were warm, comfortable, and dry. It
was a unique sight, this city built almost in a day on the banks
of a beautiful lake, surrounded by the primeval forest sweep-
ing around it in a circle three or four miles deep. There were
tribes from the north and south, the east and the west, speak-
ing their various tongues and dressed each in their peculiar
costumes. And in their center was the flag-staff.
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
Robert Irwin and my father had obtained the contract for
furnishing and delivering on the treaty grounds all provisions,
together with all necessary buildings, including quarters for
the governor and suite, which numbered in all about eighty
persons. The contractors furnished beds and bedding, chairs,
tables with their crockery and glassware. The food and lux-
uries necessary to satisfy this motley crowd were a wonder to
behold. The quantity was considerable, and in quality the
best that the government money could purchase. Of liquor there
was also an abundant store, both from still and press.
In securing the contract with the United States. Irwin was
the political power behind the throne: but father was equipped
for the business in material and appliances, and a thorough
knowledge of the situation. His boats furnished the transpor-
tation, and his saw-mill the lumber for the treaty buildings.
The goods and supplies were stored in his warehouse at Green
Bay, and prepared for transportation to the treaty ground.
In this undertaking the Durham boats were in constant use,
and people wondered at the ease with which they seemed to
solve the problem of navigating the Fox.
Description of the Durham Boat
The Durham boat had long been used on the Delaware and
Susquehanna rivers, which are somewhat similar to the Fox,
being interrupted by rapids and shallow water. The boat was
of simple build, carrying a large load with light draft, and
passing easily through the water. Generally they were from
forty-five to sixty feet in length, ten to twelve feet beam, two
and one-half feet deep, drawing eighteen to twenty inches, and
carrying from twenty-five to thirty tons of freight.
The bottom was constructed of \V-r inch oak plank, with one
streak above the bend; above this to the gunwale, pine was
used. The timbers of the' frame were of oak, 3x3^ inches,
steamed and bent, or worked out of natural crooks ; oak beams
4x5 inches were placed athwart the boat eight or nine feet
apart, and made to crown or arch four or five inches. The
waist began about eight feet from the stern and extended per-
fectly straight to within eight feet of the bow. The sheer be-
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gan at these two points, fore and aft, raising the stem and stern
a. few inches above the waist. The boat was sharp at both
ends, which were decked over to the waist, where the walking
board began, and ran the whole length of the waist. The walk-
ing board was about fourteen inches wide ; combings 2x4 inches
were secured to the inner side to give it strength and increase
the freeboard.
For the first boats that father built, he had much trouble
and expense in procuring the right kind of lumber. They re-
quired plank from twenty to thirty feet long, both pine and
oak. His mill was not yet arranged to saw such long lumber,
so he resorted to the whip saw. The timber was cut the proper
lengths, hewn on two sides, and by the use of two men and a
whip saw made into lumber. However, as the demand for boats
increased, he soon remedied this lack. He built boats not only
for his own use but for other parties; several for the American
Fur Company, Daniel Whitney, and others. The manufacture
of these craft soon grew into a large business, and gave em-
ployment to many men; it continued until the improvement of
the Fox River commenced.
The steering oar was the novelty of the boat, hewn from a
pine tree twenty feet long and large enough to make a blade
twelve inches wide and three or four feet long. The pivotal
point was about eleven feet from the end of the blade; the
stock so arches to this point that when the boat was loaded
the handle of the oar would be three feet above the deck. At
this pivotal point a slotted mortise was made to receive a l 1 /^
inch iron pin driven into the head of the stern post, on which
to hang the oar. The oar was now put in place, dressed and
thinned until it was in balance, so that it would work easily in
all necessary directions. The principal propelling power was
the socket pole, with a good, strong man at the other end of it.
This pole was made of the best and toughest white ash fifteen
feet long, 1% inches in its largest part, and tapering to IV2
inches at the top, on this being placed a button, to ease the
pressure on the shoulder. The pocket was of iron, armed with
a square steel point, well-tempered and kept sharp. The ordi-
nary oar was seldom used, although one for each man was pro-
vided in case of need. A mast, sail, and oilcloths were a part
of the outfit, beside a heavy block and tackle and a long tow-
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
line. Thus equipped the boat was a complete innovation at
the time of its introduction on the Fox River.
The French trader with his bateau drawing over two feet of
water, carrying ten or twelve tons of freight, propelled with
oars or small hand poles by a. crew of ten or twelve men,
who stopped every three miles to smoke their pipes and rest,
looked on this big boat with doubting eyes. "It is too big,"
"Cannot get her over the rapids," "Takes too many men,"
"Costs too much" — such were the criticisms. That long oar
perched upon the stern gave them much trouble and anxiety.
"Oh! you will soon take that tiling off the stern and put two
or more Frenchmen with their small handy poles there, to steer
your boat." It was knowledge perfected by experience against
ignorance and prejudice. The prophets failed. The Durham
boat won the prize and kept it until the river was improved
and the steamboat took its place.
A Trip on the Fox River
The time chosen to make this imaginary trip will be in the
month of June, 1830. By that time the transportation busi-
ness was well-established and systematized. We had learned
the best, quickest, most economical way in which to conduct it.
Our men were drilled and understood their work. I had this
season been promoted to the captaincy of my first boat, with
all the power, emoluments, and honors that that position gave.
Although a few years later I was appointed captain of a militia
company belonging to Col. Samuel Ryan's regiment, I think
I was prouder of my first command than of my second. The
boatmen were better drilled than the soldiers, and I knew more
about running a boat than a militia company.
Let us go to John P. Arndt's warehouse, standing on Point
Pleasant on the riverside fronting his dwelling, and see how the
goods were prepared for transportation. As they had to be
handled a. number of times in transit, rolled or carried over
rough and difficult places on ladders placed along the shore, it
■was necessary to have the packages of such weight that two or
three men could handle them easily without breakage or dam-
age, thereby saving both time and money. The freightage be-
ing paid by the hundred pounds, we paid the teamster in the
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same way for hauling the goods over the portage. Therefore
it became necessary to weigh each package and mark thereon
the weight. They were then checked on the wagons and a re-
ceipt given of the weight of each load, to avoid any misunder-
standing.
The boat is to be loaded today, so that we can make an early
start tomorrow morning, thus arriving at the Grand Kaukauna
landing a couple of hours before dark. Seven men compose my
crew, for my boat is large and heavily loaded. Six is the ordi-
nary crew, beside the captain or steersman. Everything is
ready, cast off the lines and let her go. Each pole is quickly
set, the button placed on the big muscles of the neck and shoul-
ders, which soon become callous and give no pain.
A three-mile gait of the polemen moves the boat at each set a
little more than its length, which gives, in ordinary water, a
speed of over three miles an hour.
It requires as much skill and tact to handle the pole and get
all there is in it of force as a propeller, as to use the oar. No-
tice how the men set and handle their poles — those on the left
side of the boat grasp theirs with their right hand just below
the button (the socket being in the water), and with a twist of
the wrist and the help of the right knee the pole is thrown into
the right position. The button is then brought to the shoulder
and the force applied. This is done so quick and deftly that
it seems like one motion. Upon reaching the stern of the walk-
ing board the poleman quickly rises, gives the pole a twist to
• disengage it from the bottom, and at the same time turns and
grasps it with his left hand, walks to the bow and sets again.
They must all set together and at the same time. The disen-
gaged hand is always ready to grasp anything in its reach,
either to increase the force of the push, or save oneself from
going overboard if the pole should slip on the bottom. The
skill and judgment of the steersman keep the boat parallel with
the stream, and avoid a sideway motion ; that would crowd the
poles on one side, and be too far off on the other. When this
happens the men break their hold and have to set again, which
causes confusion.
While the crew are forwarding the boat, let us look at our
surroundings. The sloping banks on either side, extending to
higher land bevond, divided into alternate strips (woods and
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
cultivated land), and the French claims granted to the first
settlers some years ago by the right of occupation. They are
from two to five or six acres wide and extend back from the
river eighty acres or more. Their owners have cleared
and cultivated just enough to supply their present wants, leav-
ing the original forest on either side. All that each Frenchman
wanted was a narrow strip of land on the river front, where
he could catch his fish (which he called his pork barrel), and
the forest behind for wood and timber. On his cleared land he
raises potatoes, wheat, oats, and other grain, while with gun
and rod he supplies the rest of his provender whether of fish,
flesh, or fowl.
That house which we are passing, a few rods from the river
shore, is the residence of Jourdain, a blacksmith, whose shop is
just north of the house. He is an old settler and a very worthy
one, father-in-law of the Rev. Eleazer Williams.
Next comes John Lawe's point. The platform there erected
is used to dry lyed corn, which is the food of his employees. He
is one of the old settlers, one of the few influential men of this
region. You can see from his dwelling, garden, parks, and out-
houses how he lives in patriarchal style like the old Dutchmen
on the Hudson River, a hundred and fifty years or more ago.
Here is another point, called that of Louis Grignon, on which
is an old storehouse. Forty or fifty rods east, on an elevation,
is his dwelling, an old house in the style of buildings built about
seventy or eighty years before. He, too, is an old settler, born
here and belonging to one of the oldest families. A few rods
south of this dwelling, and close to the south line of the farm,
is the schoolhouse — on Louis Rouse's farm, whose house is a
few rods south. I went to school here for a short time, the
teacher being Captain Cnrlis, afterwards succeeded by A. G.
Ellis. 5
The bank here takes a sudden rise, forming a steep descent
from the road above to the water's edge, and covered with a
heavy growth of trees and underbrush. This continues some
distance up the river, where it descends to a low but narrow
e For documents on early schools at Green Bay, see Id, xii, pp. 453-
465; see also Ellis's "Recollections," Id, vii, pp. 228-231, 234-236.— Ed.
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table-land, breaking the monotony of the view and lending
beauty to the scene.
Observe a house on that low bank near the river's shore.
There once lived a man, owner of the neighboring farm, named
Beauprey. 6 He was a trader in the olden time and died a
singular death from the excessive use of green tea. He be-
came so fond of it that he drank it night and day, and even
ate the grounds. Of this excess he died, and singular to tell,
his complexion changed to a deep tea-green.
The river is now widening. We are entering the suburbs
of what is known as "Shanty Town." This settlement is due
to a mistake on the part of a United States officer in locating
the troops in the wrong place — Camp Smith. A mile or more
away, to the southeast, on that higher elevation, two or three
buildings still remain of the old camp. This camp started the
boom of "Shanty Town," which is built on the west side of the
second plateau near its brink — the shanties are of one story
with a basement ; all kinds of material were used in their con-
struction, and no particular style of architecture. However,
they answered the purpose for which they were built, and when
no longer of use were left to time and decay. Daniel "Whitney,
the Irwins, and William Dickinson had built better, substantial,
comfortable dwellings and stores. The glory of this inland city
has gone into history. It was doomed when the order came
to move the soldiers from Camp Smith. 7
Push on. The scene is about the same, although the forest
is more dense and approaches nearer to the water's edge. The
river is fast widening. We are approaching the site of the old-
est mission in the Northwest. The Jesuit mission of Rapides
des Peres was established by Father Claude Allouez in 1669.
Three or four small modern buildings mark the place where
that heroic priest preached the gospel to the benighted Indians.
A new and bolder scene now presents itself. Higher and
more abrupt banks reach the margin of the river, covered with
a heavier growth of forest trees, dipping their pendent limbs in
the fast-flowing stream. The stream is not as straight as it
was below; the jutting points are more prominent and look as
' For a sketch of this person see Id, xix, p. 364, note 10. — Ed.
' For this episode see Id, xx, and references therein cited. — Ed.
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
though they barred the way. "We turn the point, and other
headlands appear, each with a beauty of its own.
The current now grows stronger; the Little Kaukauna is
near. That long, narrow, low-lying island which you see to
the right, is the home of the Rev. Eleazer Williams. He has
a considerable tract of land west of his dwelling, given to him
by the Oneida Indians, who were located here a few years ago.
Here are the rapids known as Little Kaukauna, sometimes very
difficult to pass. If the river is high we can push through that
short canal to the right, which was a flume or waste weir. At
an early date the United States built a mill here, but owing to
a faulty construction of the dam, which soon gave way, it was
abandoned. 8 As the river is about at the right stage, a few
quick and vigorous shoves of the poles Avill soon take us through
that quick-running mass of troubled water.
Well done, my gocd and gallant crew! The halfway stake
is passed, and not half the day gone. Moor the boat and rest
a spell while we lunch and refresh the inner man. The time
is up and we proceed. The only change in the general land-
scape is the receding of the high bank from the river, leaving
along the shore long narrow strips of low land. The same
dense forest crowds to the water's edge.
Note those hieroglyphics on the oak trees that stand leaning
over the water. They are made to represent a deer, and some-
times the hunter in the act of firing his gun. They record the
hunter's success in the chase. There are hundreds of them all
along the shores, many of them well executed and painted with
vermillion. In June, when the deer are in the red, and seek the
water, the Indian places a torch in the bow of his canoe with
a screen behind which he hides gnu in hand ready to shoot,
while his companion slowly and noiselessly poles and manages
the canoe. The deer is an inquisitive animal ; the. light at-
tracts his attention, he approaches and falls an easy victim
to the cunning of the hunter.
Here is Apple Creek, a small stream putting in from the
west : the high bank on the east side is receding from the shore,
showing a widening strip of low and level land. Then comes
Plum Creek, quite a large stream ; and there is the second house
See Id, vii, p. 229.— Ed.
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that we have seen since we left De Pere. It is occupied by Hoel
S. Wright, a shrewd Yankee who keeps a store and trades with
the Indians for furs and will put up any belated traveler who
happens along.
Among the Rapids
We are now approaching Rapides des Croches, a difficult place
to pass. Here at this short turn of the river, the water runs
swift and deep over a bottom of smooth rock and large boul-
ders, some of whose tops come near the surface and are not easily
avoided. This makes the poling bad, since the poles slip on the
smooth rock and the poleman is liable to be thrown overboard.
This place has a history. It was neutral ground between two
hostile tribes, the Winnebago and Menominee. Here in times
past they met and tried to settle their differences and to trade.
The Winnebago had wild rice to exchange. This grew in great
abundance along the lakes and rivers in their possession. The
Menominee built bark canoes and were willing to barter these
for rice and other things. The Winnebago craft Mere nothing
but clumsy and ill-built dug-outs that did not properly serve
them for the gathering of rice and fish on their large lakes, and
travelling on their many rivers. The Winnebago desired to
possess canoes, and I suspect that the Menominee always got
the best of the bargain.
From here to the Grignon landing, the poling is much easier
than below, since the current is less swift. As we ascend, the
banks on either side are increasing in height. The forest still
dominates the scene, and is densest on the eastern slope.
The Great Kaukauna
We are now approaching a panoramic scene of high lands
clothed in primitive forest, sweeping around from north to
south, then toward the western heights, then north to oppo-
site the starting point on the eastern bank — making a circuit
of seven or eight miles and enclosing one of the most beautiful
and picturesque scenes on the lower Fox. Through this re-
gion of glades and meadows, gentle slopes or abrupt ascents,
the river comes rolling and tumbling along from the westward
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
over and around the great rocks, fretting and foaming as though
in anger at the obstructions it meets; but at last it turns to the
north in quiet and peace, forming a lake in which in the proper
season thousands of fish appear — in numbers almost equalling
the leaves on the forest trees. The strong rapids above barring
their way, they crowd in masses so dense that the spearsmen
seldom miss their aim; hence the Indian name Kaukauna, which
means enough, plenty. 9
This part of the valley is owned in partnership by Augustin
Grignon and John Law T e. The first or lower landing belongs
to the former ; the upper, about one and one-half miles higher,
to Lawe. That cluster of buildings about a mile away north-
westward sheltered by the hills, is Augustin Grignon 's resi-
dence. His dwelling, outhouses, store, barns, and stables are in
the olden style, and his farm is cultivated and managed in the
primitive mode of the last century. Born and raised at Green
Bay, he has spent all his life in the Indian trade, and in later
years this has been his principal trading post. He has a beau-
tiful place and the part he uses for the farm is under a good
state of cultivation, notwithstanding the old style.
Here our agent has everything in readiness for tomorrow's
portage ; the men and teams will be on hand by daylight. No-
tice the men unloading the boat. Goods liable to be injured
by rain are put in a pile by themselves and covered w 7 ith oil
cloths. Those not requiring such protection are placed in an-
other pile, so that they can be hauled first by the teams and
stowed in the bottom of the boat, and the other goods placed
on top to keep them dry in case some accident should happen
among the rocks and the boat spring a leak. In such an emer-
gency we beach the boat, unload, and repair damages.
An Indian Village
The men have unloaded the boat, protected the piles of freight
from rain, and pitched the tents. Supper is eaten before the
sun goes down, and then we smoke a pipe and gaze at the
beautiful scene surrounding us. Look to the east, a mile away
over the moving water. See that sloping hill extending a mile
•Usually interpreted as "a fishing ground for pickerel." — Ed.
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or so along the shore, reached at an easy angle from the beach.
A distance of more than a thousand feet has been terraced and
forms a succession of broad plateaus on which the Indians have
built in irregular lines their huts and wigwams, utilizing every
available space for the cultivation of corn, potatoes, and other
vegetables. It is a typical Indian village, with its terraced
farms extending in long lines along the slope, dotted at irregular
intervals with their quaint and picturesque dwellings.
Let us now retire to our tent and sleep, for we have before
us the greatest obstacle of the whole trip to overcome — rapids
■of fifteen miles, with very little slack water between.
When we reach Lake Winnebago we will be a hundred and
forty or a hundred and fifty feet above the level of our present
night camp. This is to be overcome by the skill, brawn, and
muscle of about thirty men, wading and dragging the boat by
main force against a strong current that will continue most
of the way. The extra men are to be obtained from that In-
dian village on the slope beyond. This has been their busi-
ness ever since Fox River boating commenced; they have
learned the method and many of them are good pilots who can
take command of the boat and push her through.
Here is the dawn of another day. The cook is preparing the
morning meal, the Indians are launching their canoes to cross
the river, and I can hear the squeak of home-made carts as
they are driven down the road from Grignon's farm. In these
primitive vehicles no iron is used save the tire, and often not
even that ; they surely need no horn to signal their approach.
The men are preparing the boat for a start, and the teams
are loading. I leave one trusty man here with the agent, who
will check the goods on to the wagons and when loaded follow
them to the upper landing, and then return to check and un-
load again. Another man cares for the remaining goods. I
also send another along with the teams to guard the goods when
delivered at the upper landing where they are reloaded on to the
boat.
The tents are struck and put on the boat for fear we may not
reach the Grand Chute before night. In that case we will have
to camp, for we can not run the rapids after dark. It is but
eight miles from Kaukauna to the Grand Chute. If we have
an hour and a half or two hours of daylight after arriving at
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
the latter, we can unload and run the boat back to Kaukauna
tonight. That depends on how soon the teams will haul
enough freight to load the boat to suit the present stage of
water. A half hour's delay here may make a difference of
nearly a day in the rapids. I have directed the agent to hurry
up the teams.
The boat and crew are now ready for a start. That tall, fine-
looking Indian at the bow is Blacksmith' , my pilot, and he is
one of the best on the river. His only fault is that like the
rest of the race, he is too fond of whiskey.
Notice how the water has here spread out, forming a small,
shallow lake; but on the other side in the bight, or bend of the
bay, it is much deeper. The roar of the waters as they
rush down the rapids is much louder. You will soon see, as
well as hear, the turmoil as they plunge down an incline of
nearly forty feet in a little more than a mile.
Now comes the struggle of man with the physical forces of
nature. The steering oar is unshipped ; the mast is lashed
across thei boat to one of the beams, ten or twelve feet from
the bow ; the tow-line is made fast on one side, the same dis-
tance from the bow, and coiled ready for use. The men now
arrange themselves around the boat. The pilot is at the bow,
with his arm around the projecting point of the stem, where
he has a good purchase; there are two or three behind him
on either side, to assist in changing the direction of the boat;
two or more are placed at the mast, where it projects beyond
the boat ; the rest take their positions along the sides. They
have a good hold on the inner side of the walking board, to lift,
push, or hold on.
The water varies in depth from about two feet to four, and
the rocky bottom is very uneven. Notice how the men cross with
the boat from one side of the river to the other. They do not
turn and point the bow straight for the other shore. The craft
must be kept parallel with the trend or course of the stream.
If in a very still current, with rocks protruding here and there,
"For this Indian, whose aboriginal name was Wistweaw, see ante;
also Wis. Hist. Colls., xi, pp. 399, 400. Mrs. Kinzie calls him "the most
accomplished guide through the difficult passes of the river;" see her
Waubun, passim. — Ed.
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the boat should take a swing and the men lose control of it, it
would either fill with water and capsize, or becoming a perfect
wreck endanger the lives of the crew. The pole lashed across
the bow is a great help in such cases; one man alone can do
what it would take four or five to accomplish by other means.
Here the river runs north of east, and at the foot of the rapids
makes a big turn to the north. We are going up on the
north side of an island, formed by a small outlet on the south.
The island is covered with timber, mostly red cedar.
The Stockbridge Mission
Here we are safe and sound, moored at the upper landing
in a little pool or eddy formed by a wing-dam made by Augus-
tin Grignon to run a grist-mill which for many years he used
frequently. To the south you have a view of part of the Stock-
bridge settlement. On that interval of low-lying land between
the river and the hill to the south, are several dwellings ex-
tending up and down the river for one or two miles. These
belong to the Presbyterian Mission, of which the Rev. Mr. Miner
has charge. 11 His dwelling, out-houses, and other necessary
structures are about the centre of the tract. The situation is a
pleasing one — the river in front, backed by the green hills and
the towering forest, with intervening farms and dwellings.
The Stockbridges are both physically and intellectually a
much finer race than the other New York Indians. They are
more civilized, live more like the whites, and show less of the
Indian in their character and habits. Their dwellings are bet-
ter built, their farms better cultivated, and all their surround-
ings show more brains, thrift, and enterprise. Their farms
extend about four miles, from Kaukauna to the Cedars, well
banked from the river, for the frontage of the stream is much
broken in places; their land is well timbered and of heavy
growth.
" For documents on the Stockbridge mission, see Wis. Hist. Colls.,
xv, pp. 39 ft, including the papers of the Rev. Jesse Miner. — Ed.
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
Re-embarking
The teams have arrived with their loads — eight of them,
which means between seven and eight tons. We will hurry
and unload the wagons, and in about two hours be ready to
start for the Grand Chute.
Wei soon take the stream, the water reaching to the knees
and often to the waist, as it rushes foaming past. With a death-
like grip the men cling to their hold, and step by step force
the boat against the swift-running current. True to his in-
stinct, the pilot motions with his hand the direction to take,
straight ahead or to the right or left, always careful to keep
the boat in line with the current.
We are now passing Daniel Whitney's potashery. This is
one of the enterprises that he has carried on for a number
of years in places where ashes could be obtained. When the
Stockbridges located here he opened a store and building an
ashery induced them to save all the ashes they made, either in
their dwellings, or from log heaps they burned in clearing their
farms. As the timber was very heavy and mostly of hard
wood, a large quantity of the best ashes were obtained and con-
verted into potash at a good profit to Mr. Whitney and to the
great benefit of the Indians.
Here for more than a mile the river is deep and the current
swift and strong. The banks are broken by gulches on either
side. The higher land advancing and receding at short inter-
vals, leaves but small strips of low or meadow land, so that the
location on the river bank is not as desirable and pleasant here
as below Kaukauna. For this reason the Indians have built
their dwellings and opened their farms back from the river.
It is only now and then you catch a sight of their homes, their
clearings seldom reaching the stream.
The Little Chute, a little over three miles from Kaukauna, is
not a difficult point to pass — the lift of the rock is only eighteen
or twenty inches, and as the river widens some the flow is
lessened. At the place we pass up, the rock has been cut away,
to render it more easy to pass up or down.
Wcare now passing a low, open glade on our right, with a
high bold bank to the left, which is called the Cedars. Why it
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is so called I cannot tell, for the timber is hard wood — white
and black oak, of the finest growth, tall and straight.
The poling is good, although the current is strong but lessen-
ing as we progress, for the still water is near. When we pass
that bold jutting point to the right Ave will enter a placid
stream, languidly moving along as if fatigued with its struggle
over the rocks above and forgetful of the obstructions below.
The change is sudden from the noise and turmoil of the water
as it rushes among the rocks below, to the stillness of this gentle
stream as it flows with scarce a ripple on its smooth surface.
As we pass along up the stream we catch the echo of rushing
water tumbling from obtruding rocks, low at first but louder
as we advance, until the whole scene bursts upon us of a wide,
mad river falling four feet over a perpendicular rock, and then
rushing on for more than a mile over hidden and protruding
rocks until it is lashed into foam.
The Grand Chute
We are now approaching the Grande Roche. We will put up
our poles and take to the water. This is the most difficult place
on the river to pass with a loaded boat. It is similar in its
formation to the Croche, only on a larger scale; the river is
contracted by the west bank, forming a point, while the east
shore is almost straight. The banks are abrupt and high, and as
you turn the point the river spreads out into a bay towards
the west, making a great curve to the Grand Chute above. The
current on the east side, flowing in nearly a straight line,
meets the flow from the curved line and causes a cross current
that piles up the water in great confusion and makes the pas-
sage difficult. With a smooth rock bottom and great boulders
strewn about, many quite near the surface, with insufficient
water above them to float the boat, it requires great care to
guide the craft in safety through this turmoil. As the water
is deep, often reaching to the armpits, it paralyzes half the
strength of the men; their only safety is to cling to the boat
and inch by inch force her through the flood.
The roar of the Chute above, mingling with the noise of the
fast-flowing rapids below and around, tries the strength and
courage of the hardy boatmen, but they are equal to the task.
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
AVitli a whoop and a rush they enter the troubled water and
breast the fearful tide; the victory is soon won, the haven is
near.
From here you get a front view of the whole scene — the
Grand Chute, about a mile away, pouring its water over a rocky
ledge. As it strikes the inclined ledge below it is beaten into
a sea of foam, which like flakes of snow is carried down the
stream at railroad speed. The banks around the bay are high,
bold, abrupt, reaching to the water's edge, covered as usual
with a heavy and thrifty growth of timber. From this camp-
ing ground a trail leads to another above the Chute, over which
portages were made by the earlier navigators; it leads over
the hills to the right, a long and tedious walk, but there is no
other path, for the bluffs along the river shore bar the way.
Let us pass on and up, for our time is short, and we have
much hard work to do before we reach our goal. We must
take to the water again, for poles are useless against the strong
current, and numerous protruding rocks strew the way.
To the right, where the ledge starts from that high, steep
bank, is the point where we land and unload. You can see the
ladders laid along the shore close under the bluff, supported on
stone, to raise them above the shallow water. These ladders
extend a short distance above the Chute to a landing that has
been dug out of the bluff, forming a platform large enough to
store the goods and pitch a tent in case of need. On this side,
also, Ave will pass the boat over the Chute, as there is a Igreater
flow of water here than on the other side. We now unload the
boat and leave two or three men to move the freight to the
upper landing and look to its safety.
The boat now being lightened, away she goes down the
stream, with the swiftness of the wind. Notice how the pilot
steers the boat, straight for that big boulder that seems to ap-
proach us so rapidly. As the boat nears the rock the bow is
raised by the piling up of the water above it, and she gracefully
glides to one side as if making her obeisance to the passing
rock, the pilot at the same time moving the stern in the same
direction, which brings the boat parallel with the current. Thus
on we go at race-horse speed from rock to rock, the shores, banks,
and trees gliding past, while it seems as if we alone stood still.
We are now approaching the still water, and will use the
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oars again. The crew, to relieve the tedium of the slow pas-
sage down this stretch of dull water, give us a lively French
boatman's song. They use a short, quick stroke and beat the
time with their oars. The leader first sings a line of the song
and repeats it; then the chorus is sung by the whole crew with
a force and strength that makes the welkin ring as the echoes
roll back from shore to shore.
Lay by the oars, for the rapids are near. The ripple of fast-
flowing water is around us, the rocks seem again to be going up
the stream, the forest flying swiftly by. We are now passing
the Cedars; how quickly and smoothly we glide along!
We near the Little Chute, whose roaring we now can hear.
See the foaming crest as the water plunges over the ledge.
Through it we rush so quickly that ere we realize where we are
the Chute is past and far astern, the crew shouting with all
their might at the successful plunge we made. On we speed
like a bird on the wing; the ashery is past and we hear the
rumbling of Kaukauna Rapids below. Our landing is reached,
and the boat rounded to with the bow up stream, ready for her
second load.
Thus one day's work in the rapids is completed. We are not
always so successful, but everything has been in our favor — the
water at a good stage, the day long and the weather fine, with
no rain to hinder us. Besides, I had the pick of the extra men,
for there is no other boat in the rapids. Very low or very high
water, short days, rain, and several boats on the river at the
same time, combine to lengthen the time of transit and of course
to increase the cost.
You and I, my reader, will not ride up on the boat to-morrow,
but walk. As soon as she leaves the landing we will start, for it
is only eight or nine miles on a good trail, and this will take
us about three hours. You can see the lay of the land and
enjoy the beautiful scenery along the banks and admire the
splendid forest trees that crown the land. I will take my gun
along, for we may get a partridge or two, or some other game.
We should be able to got the boat over the Grand Chute, load
her and go into camp at the Grand Encampment before dark,
and to-morrow reach Big Butte des Morts. We are now about
half way to the Chute from Kaukauna ; this is a much travelled
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
trail and has been used for hundreds of years by the natives
of the region. See how deep the path is worn by the travel of
the light-stepping savages.
Here is the lower Grand Encampment, where we were yester-
day, in full view of and below the Chute. The trail turns here
to the right and follows around the bay over some deep gullies.
There comes the boat, just through the Grande Roche. See them
breast the stream, each man doing his best, for they know that
this is the last long pull to reach the Chute, and their day 's work
is nearly done.
To unload the boat and pull her over the Chute is a short job
with the number of men and the appliances we have. While the
crew are unloading, the extra men will move the balance of the
freight to the upper landing. We will then be ready to pass
the boat over the Chute. The purchase we use is two strong
blocks, with a suitable line. The first block is hooked into the
ring of the eyebolt in the stem of the boat, and the tackle is
fleeted ; the other block is made fast to that large tree above the
Chute, which is in line with the pull. A snatch-block is also
used, through which the fall is led that enables the men to stand
on the shore, which gives them a better chance to pull, besides
increasing the power of the purchase. Some of the rock has,
for quite a space, been removed from the top of the ledge, form-
ing an inclined plane, which increases the flow at that point,
lessens the lift, and renders it much easier to ascend.
The boat is now moved out to the place of ascent, the purchase
is hooked on, and we are ready. As the strain on the purchase
increases, the men at the bow of the boat lift all their might
At first she moves slowly, but when she strikes the broader part
of her bottom it aids the men to lift, and the blocks and tackle
do the rest. Hand-over-hand, with shouts that almost drown the
roar of the Chute, this noisy crew land the boat at the upper
landing, which is a couple of boat-lengths above the brink of
the falls.
Grand Encampment
The worst obstacle has been met and overcome. The rest
of the journey is in comparison, but play. We have time to
reach the upper Grand Encampment before dark. This is an
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old trading post, owned by Charles Grignon, situated on a low
piece of land and a mile or so above the Chute, where the early
voyagers packed their goods in passing up or down the rapids. A
road is now being made from Kaukauna to this point, to save
the wear and tear of the boats and also to lessen the expense in
money and time.
The scenery along the shores is changing. We are leaving
the higher lands behind and entering a lower range of country ;
the flow of the stream is slow and gradually expanding; the
timber is not so fine, being of a more scrubby growth than
below. We will rest here on this old camp ground in peace and
quiet for the night, and not trouble ourselves with the cares of
to-morrow.
Breakfast being stowed away next morning, the tent is struck,
the mast put in place, and we hoist the canvas and sail away
over the bright water of this glorious river. We do not often
have such a chance as this ; but we always take it when it comes,
for the poling through this stretch of the river to Lake Butte
des Morts is difficult on account of the muddy, oozy bed of the
stream. The poles are laid aside, and the oars are now useless;
the sail is up, the boat is on the wing, and apparently by her
own volition she plows a broad furrow through the limpid
waters.
Little Butte des Morts
We are now entering Little Butte des Morts Lake — so named
from a mound or Indian burying ground, the site of the Indian
treaty of 1827. The beautiful lake, with a varied conformation
of high and low lands, sweeps around in a grand circuit of
several miles. On the east side, where the curve begins, are two
inlets flowing from Lake Winnebago, forming a large island
called Four Legs, the name of one of the principal Winnebago
chiefs, who has a considerable village on the eastern end of
the island. 12 These inlets are the Winnebago Rapids. The east
side of the lake, as well as the island, is covered with a fine
dense growth of timber of various kinds, while at the west and
south, around the head of the lake, the timber is sparse and
prairie land begins.
"For this chief see Powell's "Recollections," ante. — Ed.
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
Winnebago Rapids
Here we are at the foot of the "Winnebago Rapids. Take in
the sails and man the poles. The place where we stop to unload
a part of our cargo is an old camp-ground, a short distance above
this to the left, on Four Legs Island. I will send a man abov$
to measure the water at the shoalest place, so that I can load
the boat to suit the depth, for the depth of water she draws is
marked on stem and stern. These rapids are not difficult to
pass, save for the shallow places and the trouble of unloading
and loading and making the two trips. This is the western
branch of the rapids, where there is more water and fewer
boulders than in the eastern. We will use the poles and not
have to wade, unless we ground the boat on some of the shoal
places; then we will have to take to the water to get her off.
The water is reported at a fair stage. I will take the larger
half of the load this time, choosing the lighter articles and those
that will be loaded on top when we reload.
The place where we will load our boat for the last time on
the lower Fox, is a point formed by Lake Winnebago on one
side and a curve or bend of the river on the other, making a
little cove or bay, safe from the wind. It is, and has been from
olden time, a favorite camping ground of the Indians and voy-
ageurs in this region — a beautiful place, with banks of moderate
height covered with verdant grass, crowned by a growth of
grand old trees that have given shade and shelter to the
aborigines for hundreds of years. This is the point where the
hardy boatman abides his time to cross the lake — a harbor of
refuge from storms that at times sweep over its water.
Lake Winnebago
Here we are in good time at this beautiful camping ground.
Lake Winnebago is surrounded on the north and east by a dense
forest, mostly of various kinds of hard wood. Beginning at
the eastern outlet, the shores gradually rise until you reach the
eastern side, where the banks become bluffs on a base of lime-
stone of considerable height. This formation continues for
several miles up the lake. Then the high lands begin to recede
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from the shore, and the low lands gradually widen and expand
into broad prairies at the head of the lake, and on the west side
as far up as the Big Butte des Morts; they extend also many
miles to the south.
On the east end of Four Legs Island, you can see his village
of huts, built of bark supported on poles. Some of the lodges
are twenty feet long, ten feet wide, and seven or eight feet high,
rounded at the top with a space for the smoke to escape. This
is his summer camp ; here he gathers his wild rice, plants his
corn and vegetables, dries hissfish, and hunts his summer game.
Four Legs is one of the principal Winnebago chiefs, and in-
fluential with his people. I first saw him in 1826, when he
passed through Green Bay on his way to Drummond Island,
where the British had a garrison and distributed presents to
the various tribes tliat had been loyal to them. He was then
accompanied by a suite of ten or twelve men and two or three
women, and escorted by his son-in-law, a 'white man named
Gleason, as far as Green Bay. This man Gleason 13 was a
singular genius; undoubtedly he was a Yankee by birth, shrewd,
cunning, always looking out for number one. He had estab-
lished a trading post on the east side of Lake Puckaway, and
did a fair amount of trade through the influence of his
Indian father-in-law. His wife was neither comely nor inter-
esting, either in figure, face, or motion; her walk was like that
of a sailor, and their two children had the same peculiarity.
Gleason explained it in this way: when he built his house, no
sawed lumber was to be had for the floor, so he split the logs
in halves, stripped the bark, and laid the round side up, which
corrugated the floor. His wife and children walking over these
puncheons, gave this peculiar motion to their gait. I have
often been in the house, for our boats generally had something
for Gleason in the shape of goods or provisions. He was one
of father's customers, being supplied by him with goods, for
which he gave furs in return — mostly coon skins and badger,
these being scarce in our part of the territory.
When Four Legs returned from Drummond Island, he was
fitted out with a scarlet coat adorned with gilt buttons and
,s For Luther Gleason, said to be from Vermont, see Wis. Hist. Colls.,
vli, passim; also Waubun, pp. 54, 56, 350. — Ed.
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O'-C'HECK-KA, OK FOUR-LKGS
Winnebago chief, as he appeared at the Treaty of Green Bay, 1827
Fioni colored lithograph by James Otto Lewis
Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
lace, and was topped by a much ornamented cocked hat. Glea-
son, who came down while he was at the Bay, advised father
to give the chief a suit and dinner, which he did. A sumptuous
feast was prepared and set forth in an outhouse, and the chief
and his companions enjoyed it without stint. Gleason was
toast-master and dispensed ' the tea (the only beverage) with
a princely hand befitting the son-in-law of the head-chief of a
free and independent nation. -m
All aboard for Big Butte des Morts. To get good poling r
we shall have to follow the meanderings of the various bays,
which lengthens the distance, but the wind is off shore and
this gives us smooth water.
How smoothly and easily the boat with her load of thirty tons
moves along under the force of the poles. She makes about
ninety feet at each set and rise, which will give us over thirty
miles a day. It is about 130 miles from Big Butte des Morts to
Fort "Winnebago, but we will make it easily in four daySj,
weather permitting.
Garlic Island marks about ten miles from the head of Win-
nebago Rapids ; Big Butte des Morts, where we will camp, is
four miles farther. This island cut quite a figure in the "War
of 1812, being the headquarters of Col. Robert Dickson, British
agent and superintendent of the Western tribes. 14 It is a
beautiful island, a few rods only from the mainland, round in
form, with a small crescent-shaped bay on the land side. There
are no large trees upon it, but a thrifty growth of young sap-
lings as thick as they can grow, surrounding a cleared space
of about an acre in the centre, forming a complete windbreak
and shelter from every storm. It is the completest camp-ground
I ever stepped on. There is a heavy growth of long tangled
grass, as soft and yielding as a feather bed. I wish I might
avail myself of it tonight, but we must leave this paradise of
camps and push on to Big Butte des Morts.
"William Powell, in his "Recollections", ante, p. 151, states that
Dickson's headquarters, the winter of 1813-14, were on the neighbor-
ing mainland. But Arndt's memory appears to be confirmed by the
fact that in Wis. Hist. Colls., xi, p. 278, is a letter by Dickson, dated
specifically "Garlic Island"; although others of his many letters dur-
ing the winter, in the same volume, are dated merely "Winebagoe
Lake" or "Lac Puant". — Ed.
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Here is our camp-ground; pitch the tent, prepare and eat
our evening meal, and rest until the morning star warns us of
the near approach of another day.
Big Butte des Morts
Big Butte des Morts was once the site of an old Indian vil-
lage. The land is high and covered with a fine growth of tim-
ber, with intervals of open grassy glades. The lake is of con-
siderable extent, with its receding bays and jutting points, dot-
ted here and there with islands of various forms, adding much
to the beauty of the scene.
As we pass along to where the upper Fox enters this lake,
I will explain our commissary department. Our staple pro-
visions consist of salt pork, flour, beans, wild rice, tea, and
sugar, supplemented by game, fish, or fowl that we gather along
our way. The men all know how to cook this simple fare ; the
best one is chosen, however, and the others assist. The cooking
is mostly done at night, soup being the favorite dish, made with
wild rice or beans, pork, and other meat. The meat is put
into a large camp-kettle with sufficient water, and at the right
time the rice or beans which have been soaked during the day,
are put in and boiled all night with a slow fire, so as not to
burn or scorch. It will be ready for our breakfast and also for
dinner; for supper, the meat and potatoes (if we have any) will
be fried. We have tea at every meal, plenty of it, hot and
well sweetened. This saves time, for all we have to do when
we stop for breakfast or dinner is to boil the water for this
beverage.
We always travel an hour or two before breakfast, which
gives us a good appetite and the soup is then just at the right
temperature. We often vary this when we get a fat deer, by
roasting a part of it during the night to supplement our break-
fast and dinner. For our bread, we mix flour and water to the
right consistency, with salt and a little saleratus; the dough is
then put into a large frying pan and turned frequently until
it is hard enough to stand on its edge without bending or break-
ing. It is then placed on edge around the fire, supported by a
board or a couple of sticks, near enough to brown it nicely and
not burn ; the change from side to side is frequently made, to in-
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sure success and bake it through and through. All of this
cooking is done neatly and with dispatch; and all the utensils
used are washed, wiped, and put away in a large mess chest,
ready for use after each meal.
The Upper Fox
If my reader will steer the boat for a little while, I will take
the extra pole and see if another man increases the speed.
Hold on, you have missed the Fox, you are going up the Wolf;
you should have turned to the left. That narrow opening
through the weeds and grass is the upper Fox. This is a
custom established by the early navigators of the river. When
the boat or canoe arrives at this point, the stranger is asked to
steer. If he misses the upper Fox, and takes to the Wolf, as
you have done, he pays a small forfeit to the crew. This gen-
erally is a bottle or so of wine or whiskey, deliverable on our
arrival at Fort Winnebago.
Now starboard your helm and run her through that narrow
gap, and we will soon see the upper Fox. The scenery at and
near this entrance of the river to Lake Butte des Morts would
be tame and uninteresting if it were not for the grand sweep
of prairie land, seen through vistas of timberland on the east;
while on the west side it is low and swampy, backed by high
timbered land in the distance. The current of the river is
slow, there being but thirty feet of fall from the Portage to
this place, about 125 miles. It is supposed to be as crooked a
navigable river as ever was made. The Indian legend of its
formation is something like this:
An Indian Myth 15
Long, long ago, soon after the beginning of things, a mon-
strous serpent, wise and cunning, lived in the Mississippi River.
He became dissatisfied with his home and desired to visit the
Great Lakes. So one day in the early spring he started on hia
journey. He first ascended Wisconsin Eiver, making a great
noise and commotion, throwing up sand banks and making
11 See allusion to this myth in Waubun, pp. 56, 57. — Ed.
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shallow places, completely changing the natural flow of the
river which before this had been a beautiful running stream
without obstructions. "When he arrived at the Portage the
water from the Wisconsin was flowing over it, in a northerly
direction. The ground over which the water flowed from the
Wisconsin w r as low and swampy, being nearly level; the water
was shallow and ran very slow and spread over a large tract
of country. He made his way over and through this shallow
water until he struck a small stream flowing north. He plunged
in and soon widened and deepened its narrow channel to ac-
commodate his huge body and gather in the water flowing
across the Portage and help him along on his journey. He
worked and wormed along in many directions, seeking a better
place to pass. At last, after many turns from north to south
and from west to east he found the place that he thought would
do. He soon cleared a space sufficiently large to suit him,
and as the abundant game suited his taste he concluded to re-
main and enjoy himself as best he might! This place is now
called Mud Lake.
He remained here during many moons, gorging himself with
his favorite food, until he had consumed or driven away his
supply. Hunger forced him to renew his journey. He now
struck a different formation of sand, thrown up into ridges and
hillocks, the drift of the glacial period. Of this he made short
work, soon throwing out a long channel of considerable width
and several miles in length which became a long narrow lake,
called by the Indians Buffalo Lake, because the last buffalo ever
seen in this part of the country was chased into it and drowned.
Here the serpent remained for some time. Buffalo and deer
were plenty and he enjoyed himself right royally. The water
increased and formed a large lake; a high bank, or moraine,
formed a dam and held the water back. The noise and con-
fusion he made caused the game to leave this region. Having
nothing to eat, he concluded to continue his journey, broke
through the opposing bank, and he and the water rushed on to
the next resting place, which was but a short distance below,
where another bank intervened and barred the way for a time.
But exerting his tremendous strength he removed the obstruc-
tion and moved on, leaving still another lake, now called Puck-
away, from its many reeds or rushes, of which the Indians
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
make their mats. The laud to the right, or east, being high
and piled up in great ridges, he concluded to change his course
to a more westerly one, for in this direction the way seemed
more open. He therefore changed his tactics, and instead of
going through the hillocks he went around them, steering his
great carcass among these obstructions until he had boxed the
compass many times.
He now came to a different country, where the obstructions
were more formidable, land higher, rock and stone more com-
pact and covered with a thick growth of forest. Nothing
daunted, he rushed on, throwing his whole strength into the
work. He scooped out a small lake which is now called Big
Butte des Morts; by forming this lake he had tapped another
supply of water to help him on his way, the Wolf River. En-
couraged by this he moved along with more vigor and force
to greater and more herculean deeds. Another lake of greater
extent was formed; here he sported, rolled, dove, and swam to
his heart's content. Being wise he knew by the peculiar glim-
mer at times in the eastern sky that his work was nearly done,
that a large body of water lay off to the east and north, that
the Great Lakes were near.
He made another circuit of the lake, now called "Winnebago,
to find the weakest part of the barrier. He chose the north-
west portion, for there the land is lower; there he made the
breach and scooped out a small lake below, called now Little
Butte des Morts. After remaining there a short time, he con-
cluded to visit Lake Winnebago again and enjoy himself. After
a time the desire to reach the Great Lakes returned stronger
than ever. When he returned to the outlet, Winnebago Rapids,
he decided that he needed more water below to help him through
the rocky stratum ; so at it he went and soon accomplished the
task.
On rushed, with its guide, the increased flood of water, tear-
ing and rending the solid rock and removing the superincum-
bent earth and thus forming the Grand Chute. On went the
work of reformation. The Little Chute was reached ; the Grand
Kaukauna was twisted and wrenched and the afterflow was
left to complete the work, while the great tide swept on, left
its mark at De Pere, and passed on wasting its strength in the
Great Lakes. Subsequent! v the great fabulous serpent was
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swept over Niagara and perished ingloriously in its turbulent
waters.
The Lakes of Fox River
We are moving along at our usual pace of a little over three
miles an hour, gradually unwinding the crooks and turns of
this serpentine river. To cheer and pass the time the bowsman
as he breaks his set at the end of the push, and turns to walk
to the bow, bursts forth into a merry song which breaks in
echoes along the silent stream, each man marking time with
his feet. In silence they reset their poles, push to the end,
rise, and the whole crew break forth in a repetition of the line.
Thus each line is sung to the end of the song.
Wearied of this, for a time a dead silence ensues, there being
heard only the set of the poles and tramp of feet along the
walking boards. Steadily they set, push, and rise, and the
boat glides along over this smooth and gentle stream appar-
ently with little effort. But here we are at our camping
ground, nearly forty miles from the Butte.
Of the scenery I can say but little. It has a sameness not as
pleasing as the lower Fox. Prairie and sparsely-timbered land,
intermixed with the roll of the prairie on the east side, form in
some places a grand spectacle. In a few places, where the
river has made its way through the drift, there are bluffs of
considerable height. We will try to reach Gleason's place on
Lake Puckaway to-morrow, and another day and a half will
put us at Fort Winnebago.
Just as the sun is rising, the boat is ready, and all are aboard.
More twists and turns and points deviate our course, and within
a few miles we have steered to every point of the compass. On
the introduction of the larger and longer boats we were obliged
to cut away many of these points, for there was not room to
turn the bends. We always carry shovels and picks for this
purpose, and to remove the sand-bars that form.
We will today pass an interesting point a few miles below
Lake Puckaway — a hill of considerable elevation, at right angle
with the river, forming a long narrow ridge, the north slope of
which is an easy grade, the south side being steep. On the
apex are two rows of mounds, each four of them forming a
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
square of seventy-five or a hundred feet. The north row be-
gins with a mound two or three feet high ; to the east is another
mound in exact line, a little larger than the first, and so on as
far as I traced them, each succeeding mound increasing in size.
The south row was in reverse order, diminishing in size going
east, while the north row diminished running west, so that the
four formed a square.
Lake Puckaway is in view from this point — long, narrow,
and shallow, overgrown in part with reeds and rushes, hence
its name. At Gleason's place on the east side we will make
a short stop, and then go on to Buffalo Lake through a narrow
channel that connects the two lakes. This is difficult to pass
by reason of the shallow water and the crooks and turns, but
we will reach the head of Buffalo Lake to-night and camp.
This lake is long and narrow with high, irregular banks, mostly
of sand, especially at the foot of the lake. Our camp is at last
reached after a long, weary push. "We are glad to rest and
sleep,'
The morning opens bright and clear. Push on, all together.
Here is Mud Lake ; well named, for there is nearly as much
mud here as water. If the Fox is the crookedest river in Wis-
consin, this lake has more mud to the square foot than all the
other lakes in the Territory put together. Its bottom, if it has
any, is far below the reach of our longest pole. We are obliged
to use our oars to cross this reservoir of mud, until we can
again find water and a bottom for our poles.
The Fox turns and twists around these points and bends.
We face the north, then the east, the south, and the west, and
back again. But we are making progress now; there is the
fort, the bends unwind, the points grow less, the river straight-
ens, a few more shores and here is our landing. A small crowd
greets us — the officers from the fort, the sutler, and a few
settlers from the west side of the river. The arrival of a boat
from Green Bay is quite an event for the residents of this
place, who receive most of their supplies from our town.
Fort Winnebago
We will unload the boat and prepare for her passage down
the river at the peep of dawn. Meanwhile the goods will
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be checked and the necessary papers made out, so that there
need be no delay. In preparing the boat for her return trip,
a fireplace will be built of stones and turf in the middle of
the craft, in which to do our cooking. Other little arrange-
ments will also be made for our comfort, so that there will be
no let or hindrance in our passage down.
The Portage, or Fort Winnebago, is not a pleasant place as
compared with many other locations on the Fox. The fort is
built on a bluff on the east side, a short distance from the river
fronting the south. The sutler's store is situated near the bank
of the stream, not far from the fort. The shops and other
necessary buildings are 1200 or 1500 feet south of the fort;
the grounds, as is usual with army people, are kept neat and
clean. A bridge connects the two sides, just below the sutler's
store.
Just above the fort the river makes a turn to the east, along
the higher land on that side, leaving on the west the greater
part of the low lands, or portage. On a bluff about a half mile
from the river, west of and nearly opposite the fort, are situ-
ated the Indian agency and the residences of some of the orig-
inal settlers. This bluff sweeps around, trending to the west,
until it strikes Wisconsin River about three miles southwest of
the fort, forming a portaging place between the two rivers,
Boats with their cargoes are portaged here on heavy wagons
made for that purpose, and when launched on Wisconsin
River make their way to Prairie du Chien or St. Louis.
When in 1829 the United States rebuilt Fort Winnebago, 16
contracts for building material were given out. Father took
one to make and furnish all the brick, for he had all the im-
plements used in brick-making, besides men skilled in the busi-
ness. A year or two after the visit of Lafayette to the United
States, father built a small-sized Durham boat which he named
"Lafayette." She was a light, easy-running craft of from
fifteen to twenty tons. This boat was loaded with brick-making
tools and all necessaries, and with a crew of ten or twelve men
19 The fort was built during the autumn of 1828; Arndt refers to
the erection of additional and permanent buildings in 1829. See Wis.
Hist. Colls., xiv, pp. 65-74. — Ed.
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
was sent to Fort Winnebago. I went along as a sort of super-
numerary.
It was in early June. The boat having a light load and a
large crew ascended the rapids and in a few days reached Fort
Winnebago. All arrangements for the work were soon made,
and the place where the brick were to be made chosen — on the
Wisconsin River about a mile and a half southwest of the fort.
The work was well and quickly done under the superintendence
of James Stewart from Ohio, whom father had employed for
the purpose. The kiln could be seen for years thereafter.
Return Voyage
Early next morning we start on our downward way. The
boat, being light, glides easily and swiftly along, and turns the
points with ease. When we get through these short turns and
have long reaches ahead, the wind being favorable, we shall
make sail and push along faster. We should reach our camp
of night before last by noon, and if the wind holds good, we
may anticipate a fine sail through Mud and Buffalo lakes.
This will continue down the outlet, most of the way into and
through Lake Puckaway, until we enter the outlet or river where
it takes a short turn to the west. There we will have to use
our oars, unless the wind follows us around the bend.
We have been making good progress during the night, both
with oars and sail. If this wind holds good, which I hope
and think it will, there will be less rowing and poling and more
sailing, and tonight we shall sleep at Winnebago Rapids. It
is nearly noon, and the progress we are making will take us
to Big Butte des Morts by the stroke of twelve. Here we are
on this beautiful lake, with "a free sheet and a following
wind." Let her go free in the open sea. She is moving lively
now, for the wind is stronger here and increasing. We have
passed the Butte and the high lands, and the low lands are on
either side. When we make and turn that point to the right,
Lake Winnebago will be seen.
The wind is stronger and more steady since we left the high
lands and the shelter of the forest. We will keep the boat well
out in the lake, to catch all the wind there is, and have a
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freer sheet, for the wind will follow somewhat the trend of the
lake.
We are now on the open sea, with a fair wind. The boat is
moving along like a thing of life, throwing the water from her
sides as she swiftly passes through it. The day is waning, but
we have time yet to reach our camp if this wind holds, for
there is Garlic Island to the left and abreast of us. We are
measuring off the miles at a great rate. See how quickly we
reach from point to point ; the last one, forming the outlet to
the lake, and where we will camp, looms up and is growing
nearer and more distinct every moment. Now we open the
passage, and see the shores on either side. Starboard your
helm, let go and haul the starboard sheet, luff. The boat turns
the point and is safely moored for the night.
Arise my brave crew ; one more effort on the home stretch
and we will be there 'ere the sun sets. Cast off the lines, man
the poles, give her to the current as it flows, and guide her
straight from rock to rock. That was well done. These rapids
are past, and here is Little Lake Butte des Morts. The wind is
fair, hoist the sail and let her go.
Here is the Grand Encampment. Take in the sail and lower
the mast, for we cannot jump the Chute and rapids with it
standing; it might give us some trouble. Make everything
ready and take the poles; we will push her down to the Chute,
jump it, and let the swift-running water do the rest, except
to guide and keep the boat parallel with the current.
Here she goes. The current has got the boat within its grasp ;
she is driven ahead on nearly a level keel more than a third
her length before the bow dips to the incline below and makes
the plunge. It is done so quickly and her motion is so rapid that
you can hardly realize what has taken place before you find
yourself a mile below the Chute and still going on at a railroad
speed. If well done, it is grand and exciting and attended with
but little danger.
We pass down, until we come to Grignon's (or the upper)
landing. A little below this we strike the main rapids. The
river is here contracted by an island on the east or south side.
It is said that there is a fall here of nearly forty feet in a little
over a mile. In one place the boat makes three tremendous
plunges in succession. As she shoots along on the crest of the
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
wave, the bow rises as she goes; when the crest is about mid-
ship, up goes the stern and the bow plunges into the foaming
water ahead, throwing the spray clear to the stern of the boat.
Thus three times she rises and plunges through this tumult of
water, each time increasing her speed, which is fearful to see.
The last blow given to these troubled waters was more terrific
than the first; it made the boat tremble from stem to stern,
but she recovers and glides along to more tranquil water. Thus
we pass the rapids of the Grand Kaukauna to the still water
below, where we hoist the sail and pass on down to Green Bay.
The trip which I have here described was made in twelve days
— nine days on the upward journey and three on the return,
besides some night work, using the sail on the return journey
whenever possible. The distance from Green Bay to Fort Win-
nebago is 160 miles, which gives us about eighteen miles a day
on the upward trip, and fifty-four or fifty-five on the return,
including the night work. The distance travelled on the round
trip (320 miles) makes an average of nearly twenty-seven miles
per day during the long days of June.
The Durham monopolizes Traffic
After its introduction, the Durham boat was in constant use
on Pox River between Green Bay and Fort Winnebago, and
was some times used on Wisconsin River as far as Prairie du
Chien, and even to Galena. It drove the French batteaux almost
entirely out of use, as it carried a larger load and required fewer
men to handle it. From the year 1825 until the completion
of the improvement of Fox River, it was the usual means of
transportation on that river.
As the business increased, more boats were built and improved.
The open uncovered space between forward and after decks was
housed with a strong but light frame, covered with a double
course of half-inch pine boards, securely nailed and painted,
the sides enclosed with adjustable shutters of the same material,
making a dry comfortable cabin for either freight or passengers.
Still other changes and improvements were introduced. The
larger boats when completed and fully equipped for use, cost
about a thousand dollars. To save their wear and tear in the
rapids, smaller ones were built, something like the batteaux but
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with more beam and lower sides, whose tonnage was about a
third of the larger boats and their cost much less. They were
used in the rapids between Grand Kaukauna and Grand Chute,
and were found to save both time and money. One set of the
Durhams was used between Green Bay and Kaukauna, and an-
other set between the Grand Chute and Fort Winnebago. The
small boats were used exclusively until the road was finished,
when the greater part of the goods were hauled from Kaukauna
to the Chute by teams. This lessened the time in the rapids and
the cost of transportation.
Three lines of boats competed for the business, so the price
of the work was lowered and the profits lessened. Father could
stand this competition better than those who were new in the
business. He built his own boats, and in every respect was better
equipped in men and material from his long experience in their
use. Several parties tried the experiment of building their own
boats, but did not succeed very well, for their craft proved to
be too heavy and logy, being badly built.
Daniel Whitney, who had purchased several boats from father,
thought he could build them cheaper himself. He found and
hired a man from somewhere on the Mississippi, who said he
knew all there was to know about the Durham boat. He set
him to work at his ashery at the Grand Kaukauna, and began
to collect the material.
Lumber was plenty and easy to get, but the iron work was
another thing, especially the spike. Good blacksmiths were
scarce. Father had a shop and blacksmith helper and had the
blacksmithing done for his own boats. Mr. Whitney applied to him
to do the work and make the spikes and bolts. The new boat
builder had whittled out a pattern of a spike, about four inches
long and % of an inch wide, a perfect wedge with a head on.
Father at once said: "Mr. Whitney, that boat will never go up
Fox River; that shaped spike will split every plank and timber
in which you attempt to drive it, or if you use a bit large enough
to drive without splitting it will leave a leak; and besides it
will not hold the planking in their place without clinching.
Your man is no boat builder, no mechanic, and your boat will be
a failure."
Mr. Whitney was somewhat set in his way, and no argument
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Pioneers and Durham Boats on Fox River
could induce him to change the shape of the spikes, so they were
made as ordered and the result was as predicted.
The following spring the boat was launched after much
trouble and expense. Mr. Whitney was by this time convinced
that the boat was a failure as far as navigating the rapids of the
upper Fox ; she was too heavy, for a third more lumber was used
than was necessary. She drew six or eight inches more amid-
ship than she did before or after, besides other defects in her
construction. He concluded if she would not do for the rapids
and upper Fox he would take her to Navarino and make
a wood and lumber raft of her. He put a big crew aboard and
started down the rapids. After much time and hard work they
got the boat below the Croche, but stuck her fast about half
way between the Croche and "Wrightstown, where she remained
several weeks before they attempted to move her again. The
bad construction of the boat and the hard knocks she received
in going over the Grand Kaukauna, started the calking from the
seams and made her leak badly. In course of time they got
her to the Bay, fixed her up, and sent her to Duck Creek for
a load of wood. The next morning after being loaded, she
again sank, and this was, if I recollect rightly, her last trip.
The introduction of the Durham boat was a novelty to
the people residing on the Fox. They declared at first that it
would be an impossibility to force that big boat with its great
load up and through the rapids ; it would take lots of men and
weeks to make the trip to the Portage. Better use the French
batteau, to which they had long been accustomed. At the first
trial of the boat they w r ere dissuaded of their hereditary belief
by the ease with which she passed along with her great load,
and by the power and control that each man had with the
shoulder, where his whole muscular strength as well as his
weight could be applied. The small hand-pole used on the
French batteaux had brought into play only muscles of the
arms. The change of opinion was sudden. The Durham moved
more easily through the water, we were not so tired when the day's
work was done, even though we had shoved the big boat with a
load — three times greater than that of the batteaux, more than
thirty miles each day after clearing the rapids. Even on the
upper Fox, because of her peculiar build she moved more easily
than the batteau.
15 [ 219 ]
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The crews were mostly made up of men born in Canada, who
at an early age had enlisted in the service of the American Fur
Company for a term of from five to ten years where their wages
were low, and their food corn and tallow, eked out with the
products of the chase. After completing their term of service,
many of these men remained in the Green Bay settlement, soon
married either a squaw or a woman of mixed blood, and large
families were the result. The boys, as they grew to manhood,
followed the pursuit of their fathers, or entered the transporta-
tion business, and made up the crews.
Recently a Prairie du Chien paper noted the death of Alex-
ander Gardapie, an old voyageur, ninety years of age. He was
one of the members of my favorite crew. He had been born and
raised on a farm on the west side of the Fox, north of and ad-
joining that now owned by Isaac Dickey. Note the age at which
he died, indicating the vigorous hold he had on life. This is
but a sample of that once efficient crew and the men who com-
posed it. Many of them lived to four-score years and beyond.
[220]
Territorial Supreme Court
The Supreme Court of Wisconsin
Territory 1
By Robert George Siebecker
The act of Congress establishing the territorial government
of Wisconsin, in 1836, provided for a territorial court of three
judges, to whom was committed the high function of forming
the system of civil courts designed by the general government,
and of executing judicial power for a people who had thereto-
fore lived in the free and unregulated state of primitive times.
Under this act the president of the United States appointed
Charles Dunn of Illinois, 2 David Irvin of Virginia, 3 and William
C. Frazier of Pennsylvania 4 to constitute this tribunal. On
July 4, 1836, the territorial government officers subscribed the
oath of office at Mineral Point. The judges of this court did
likewise and thus took the first step to establish courts for the
infant territory of Wisconsin. The court first met to hold
a session at tins place, Belmont, on December of the same year.
The executive and legislative departments of the territorial gov-
ernment had theretofore located here and legislative activities
had been begun in a session commencing October 25, 1836. At
this first session of the court Chief-Justice Dunn and Associate-
1 Address delivered by Mr. Justice Siebecker of the Supreme Court
of the State of Wisconsin at the unveiling of the tablet erected by the
Wisconsin Federation of Women's Clubs on October 7, 1912, on the site
of the first territorial capitol of Wisconsin at Leslie (formerly Bel-
mont) in Lafayette County. — Ed.
' See estimate by Martin in Wis. Hist. Colls., xi, p. 408. — Ed.
•Sketched by Draper in Id, vi, p. 379; see also Proceedings, 1911, pp.
182-186.— Ed.
« See Wis. Hist. Colls., i, pp. 127-130.— Ed.
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Justice Irvin were present and participated in the formal or-
ganization of the court by appointing a clerk, administering the
oath of office to Henry S. Baird as territorial attorney-general,
and admitting a number of persons to practice before the court ;
but no litigated matter was presented. The court adjourned
and designated Madison as the place where it would convene in
July of the following year, and there all subsequent meetings
of the court have been held. These are the few and simple
annals that tell the beginnings of the judicial history of the
people inhabiting the beautiful and expansive domain of our
State.
Turning our view further backward to the remote beginnings of
white settlement in this territory, there arises in our minds a
picture of the condition of a primitive wilderness abounding in
all the natural resources that are needed to supply the wants
of an enlightened people, awaiting only the skillful hand of
man to convert them to his beneficial use. The people who
undertook this great task well knew that this could be accom-
plished only under a well regulated society through the orderly
processes of civil government, which would protect life and
person, and secure to everyone the fruits of their labors and the
blessings of their homes. To aid in accomplishing this was the
high function of the courts as a branch of civil government.
The social conditions that then existed, practically imposed on
the inhabitants the necessity of employing individual power td
protect themselves in their personal and property affairs, since
the situation only admitted of an imperfect administration of
law among the few and widely separated inhabitants.
Prior to 1823, judicial transactions of a minor character were
confined to the local courts, before justices of the peace, and
obviously they were administered in an irregular and desultory
manner under the prevailing crude and unorganized conditions.
All civil and criminal matters of a graver nature were under
the law tried in the supreme court of the territory at Detroit,
Michigan. This necessarily compelled the people to forego a
resort to the courts for the enforcement of legal rights, on ac-
count of the great distances and lack of highways, as well as
the other hardships and cost of travel. In 1823, Congress re-
moved these difficulties in part by providing for an additional
judge for that part of Michigan Territory lying west of Lake
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Territorial Supreme Court
Michigan. James Duane Doty, then twenty-four years of age,
was appointed to this office, and continued in this service until
1832, when he resigned and was succeeded by David Irvin, who
remained in office until the organization of the Wisconsin terri-
torial government in 183G.
Until 1827 the appointed places for holding this court were at
Green Bay, Brown County, and at Prairie du Chien, Crawford
County ; but at that time a change was made from the latter place
to Mineral Point, Iowa. County. Little is specifically known of
the conduct of judicial transactions during these years. The
tradition is, that the court met the needs of the community in
a practical way, under the peculiar exigencies and occasions of
the time, though its procedure for enforcing its mandates as
an instrumentality of justice and social order was characterized
at times by novel and unusual methods. It may be prob-
lematical whether or not a regular and orderly procedure, ap-
propriate to an old and established community, would have been
suitable to an efficient enforcement of law under the conditions
of those early days.
Transgressions against the security of life and limb were by
force of circumstances dealt with in a summary way, in order
to restrain offenders from violations of the peace and good
order. Under these circumstances the power conferred by the
Ordinance of 1787, to promulgate civil and criminal law, could
not readily be executed, for an employment of orderly proced-
ure in the customary ways was materially hampered and re-
stricted by the prevailing primitive state of affairs. Nor were
the territorial judges and officers supplied with means to pro-
mulgate and enforce a system of procedure such as pre-
vailed in older states and which had been evolved under more
favorable conditions.
It is manifest that this new court began its activities in an
environment devoid of the influences that had shaped the law
of more thickly-settled and well-governed communities. The
rapid increase in population after 1830 in the mineral-pro-
ducing region and in the organized counties where the public
domain was open for sale and entry, brought about the need for
an efficient local self government to protect the various interests
growing out of new and flourishing enterprises. The terri-
torial courts, which constituted the pioneer institutions in the
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judicial history of our State, were established to meet this de-
mand. Though the period during which they flourished was
but brief, their influence gave birth to a system of courts that
has maintained and promoted the peace and prosperity of the
people of our State to this day.
Progress in establishing a system of law and courts appropri-
ate to the necessities of the times was much accelerated by a
rapidly-growing population and its expanding commerce and
industry. As the people learned to know the possibilities of
their surroundings, they framed laws which sprang from their
necessities and from their aspirations for and ideals of freedom
and self-government. Since their industry, commerce, and hus-
bandry were undeveloped and engrossed their attention, it is nat-
ural that they developed a sense of responsibility pertaining
to individual affairs rather than those concerned with public
interests. We should therefore expect that the courts would
devote their labors to protecting the private rights and inter-
ests of the people. This is manifest from their records, which
show that they were principally occupied in redressing wrongs
and enforcing rights of this nature. The environment and life
of the people worked for simplicity and practically in the
affairs of life. The spirit of actuality was potent in the ad-
ministration of the law and became infused into its fabric. It
was effective in suppressing useless ceremonial and conventional
practices which served no useful purpose. This spirit tended
to the adoption of the customs and usages of the times as the
best means for the enforcement of the moral rules on a level
with the people's practical ethical sense.
The ideas and practices infused into our law by these early
courts has continued to mould the jurisprudence of our State
and made it receptive to such changes and improvements as
the progress of the people has demanded. We cannot doubt that
these conditions were influential in developing the ideas and
sentiments which found expression in our State constitution
and our system of law and courts. Among the effective causes
creating these favorable conditions was the sentiment of a com-
mon purpose, which later became operative, to promote the good
of the people as a whole. This is a powerful incentive to aid
in the building of a system of jurisprudence promotive of the
common good. It tends to prevent the adoption of partial and
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Territorial Supreme Court
technical regulations, regardless of their fitness to serve indi-
vidual and public interests, and serves to foster practical
equality.
The part pla} r ed by the early judges materially aided the
conditions favorable to the enactment of good laws and promotive
of the fortunes of our people. Inspired by their conception of
natural justice, the people's enthusiasm for good government
received expression by them in a liberal and practical admin-
istration of the law. That these influences were an effective
agency, influencing their judicial action, is shown with
remarkable clearness and force as we study the course of the
events that resulted in the formation of the people's institutions
and laws. It promoted the spirit for improvement in legal pro-
cedure, culminated in the adoption of our code at an early day
in the history of our State, and led to many reforms which
simplified the law and accommodated it to the actual needs for
a practical regulation of affairs, thereby developing among the
people a respect for law which has been most potent in inspiring
faith in their government as an agency under which they might
secure the blessings of liberty and enjoy the fruits of their toil.
I rejoice that the power of this influence is not spent and that
it operates today among our people to maintain a respect for
government and to check the disdain for law and order which
breeds the spirit that incites men to destroy their most benefi-
cent institutions. It helps to keep before us the ideal of a sys-
tem of laws which will further our best interests and protect us
in the things we cherish as most sacred in life.
The achievements of our pioneer courts are an assurance that
the judges composing them were men of probity and intelligence
and of original and constructive thought. Of the three original
appointees, Judge Frazier died October 18, 1838. It is said of
him: "His career in Wisconsin was so brief and unimportant
that but little is now remembered of it beyond the anecdotes
found in the published Collections of the Wisconsin Historical
Society, except that which is in a great degree traditional."
Andrew G. Miller of Pennsylvania was appointed his successor. 5
As so constituted, these appointees held office until the organiz-
ation of the State government in 1848. The history of their
•For a biographical sketch see Id, vii, p. 463. — Ed.
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Wisconsin Historical Society
services shows that they were men of high judicial integrity
and that they were impelled by an earnest fidelity and zeal to
administer exact and equal justice. Their strong natural abil-
ities and large capacities had been improved by training and cul-
ture. They fitted well into a generation in the legal profession
when men stood on the solid ground of their individual power,
and they were characterized by resolution and forcefulness. In
their knowledge of men and things they were broad, and they
dealt considerately with every class of the people • in all their
varying relations and interests. A knowledge of the wide range
of affairs and conditions of their day, coupled with their pro-
fessional learning, enlarged their views of life and cultivated in
them the sagacity of men of the world. They stood in high
esteem with members of the legal profession and the people, for
their social virtues and for their devotion to a faithful discharge
of their high official duties. Their lives and work justify the
belief that they did much to promote the highest good of the
people of this State, and as pioneers of civilization in this great
Northwest contributed much to the wholesome influences that
impart a respect for law and government.
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